Western Tian Shan

Description of a Category 5B route to Sayram Peak (4238 m) via the Central Bastion of the North Face in Tian Shan.

I. Climbing type: rock, Climbing area: Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge, Sairam Peak, 4238 m, via Central Bastion of North Face, rock climbing, Proposed complexity category: 5B, Route characteristics: elevation gain — 910 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty — 565 m, average steepness — 68°, Number of pitons: rock — 72, protection devices No. 124, ice — 0, bolt — 0

Climbing passport for the "Sanramskiy" peak, 4238 m, in the Ugam Range, Western Tian-Shan, a combined route of 5A difficulty category.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent class – combined Ascent area – Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. "Sairamskiy" 4238 m, via left couloir of N slope Expected difficulty category: 5A Route characteristics: height difference – 780 m; average steepness – 70°; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category – 270 m. Pitons hammered:

First ascent description of the route with 5A category of difficulty to the summit of Sayram (4238 m) in Ugam Range via the right counterfort of S wall.

Ascent Passport Area: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge, 7.11. Peak name: Sayram, route name: via the right 3rd buttress of the N wall (4238 m). Difficulty category: approximately 5A, first ascent. Route characteristics: combined. Height difference of the wall section: 574 m, route length: 1420 m, wall section length: 620 m, section lengths: 5th difficulty category – 290 m, 6th difficulty category – 20 m, average steepness of the wall section: 69°, entire route: 60°. Hooks left on the route: total – 1.

Description of the route to Peak Pioner via the eastern ridge, category 3A, climbed in 1987.

Route Description to to p. Pioneer via the Eastern ridge, approximately category 3A difficulty, completed on August 20, 1987. Departure from the base camp at 6:00 AM, travel time to the 1st lake is 1.5–2 hours. From the 1st lake: Bypass the northwestern ridge from the right along the scree slope, heading towards a large, wide scree couloir. When ascending the scree couloir, stick to its left side, close to the slabs. Here is the 1st control point — the beginning of the route. Further: Along the ridge for 40 m, simultaneous movement to the 1st gendarme. The gendarme is bypassed on the right via a steep, inclined ledge (400 m).

Route passport for a Category 6A climb to peak Kyzylbash (Tian-Shan), including a detailed path description and technical characteristics.

Ascent Passport Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sayram-Su gorge, 7.11 Peak name: Kyzylbash, route: via the left part of the NE wall Route category 6A difficulty level according to KMGV 1999 >3×205 Route type: rock Route elevation gain: 755 m Route length: 835 m Section lengths: R1 — 228 m, R2 — 217 m Average steepness: — main part of the route — 82°,

Report on the ascent made by the Ushba Alpine Club team to the summit of Kyzylbash (4,200 m) via a 6A route on the left part of the NE wall.

Ascent Passport Area: Western Tian Shan, Ugam range, section number according to the 2001 classification table: 7.11. Name of the peak: Kyzylbash (4200 m), route name: via the left part of the NE wall. Difficulty category: 6A. Route characteristics: rock. Route elevation gain: 695 m, route length: 755 m, section lengths: 5th difficulty category — 258 m, 6th difficulty category — 207 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 89°, entire route — 82°, 72°. Pitons left on the route: total — 7; including bolted pitons — 2. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolted | Chocks | Ice | | :---------: | :---------: | :-----------: | :------: |

First ascent of 6B category of complexity via the North-Eastern wall of Peak 4200 (Kyzylbash) in the Western Tian-Shan, with a detailed description of the route and technical means used.

Passport Rock class Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge Peak 4200 (Kyzylbash), via the left part of the NE wall Proposed — 6B category, first ascent Height difference: 695 m, length — 755 m, length of sections 5–6 category — 465 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 82° (3540–3990) Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :-------- | :----------- | :---------- | :-------- | | 119/22 | 37/13 | 87/16 | 0 |

Climbing passport for the ascent to the summit of Kyzylbash (4200 m) via the center of the NE wall in the Ugam range, Western Tian-Shan, category of difficulty 3A.

ASCENT DOCUMENT Ascent type: rock climbing Ascent area: Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge Peak, its height, and ascent route: «Kyzylbash» — 4200 m via the center of the NE face Estimated difficulty category: 5B Route characteristics: Height difference: 820 m Average steepness: 84° Length of sections: R1 45 m, R2 450 m, R3 315 m Pitons hammered in:

Report on the first ascent by a team via the Northeast Wall of Peak 4200 in the Ugam Range, Western Tian Shan, with a complexity category of 6.

I. Rock class. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, "Sairam" gorge. "4200" peak, via the North-Eastern wall. Proposed - 6B cat. of difficulty, first ascent. Height difference - 870 m, length - 1080 m. The length of sections with 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 750 m, of which 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 680 m. The average steepness of the main sections - 80°, of which 6B cat. of difficulty - 312 m (3230–3365), (3560–3610), (3650–3730). Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | | :------: | :--------: | :-------: | :-----: | | 97/1 | 14/3 | 66/5 | 0/0 |

Climbing passport for the peak Kyzylbash (4200 m) in the Ugam Range via a 6B category difficulty route.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent class: rock Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan Ugam ridge Peak, its height, and ascent route "Kyzylbash" - 4200 m NE ridge Expected difficulty category 5A Route characteristics: height difference 1050 m average steepness 62° length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. 320 m Pitons hammered: