Western Tian Shan

Route description to the summit of Manas via the East ridge from the camp at 3300 "May nights", duration 11 hours.

Departure from the 3300 "May overnight stay" site, which is located on the left-bank moraine of the Manas glacier. Departure from the assault camp at 7:00. The approach to the route goes along the left-bank moraine. The route starts with a wide scree couloir, which descends from the East Ridge. The couloir is passed in 2 hours. The entrance to the ridge is a landmark - an inclined slab. Behind the slab, a sharp snow ridge begins - I5, 20 m. Between it and the inclined slab is the first checkpoint. Here, tie in, insurance is alternate through ledges and ice axe. On the ridge, there is a group of rocks that are bypassed on the left. Movement - 3 hours. Before reaching the big gendarme, traverse the slope from the left side along rocks of medium difficulty with a descent into a wide snow couloir. Careful insurance through ledges and rock pitons. Further ascent along the couloir to the snow saddle - 2 hours. From the saddle, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (40 m), insurance through ledges and pitons. From the rocks, exit to the snow dome (100 m) and the summit. Descent along coarse-block scree to the saddle between Bashennый Manas and Manas Glavny. Total travel hours - 11 hours.

The ascent to the summit of Manas (4482 m) via the Eastern Ridge, rated as 2B difficulty category, was made by a group led by Gorbatenko V.M. in May 1979.

Climbing technique, ridge — Peak, its height, ascent route — Манас, 4482 m, eastern ridge Estimated difficulty category — 2B Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections I–V cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 100 m, avg. steepness 40°, length of sections: I cat. diff. — 500 m, II cat. diff. — 500 m, III cat. diff. — 100 m Pitons driven for insurance to create artificial support points: local — 5, loop — 2, bolt — none Difference in travel hours — II Number of nights, and their characteristics — none

Description of the route to the summit via the North Ridge with a detailed analysis of key sections and technical features.

The approach from the "Майские ночёвки" bivouac. From the campsite, ascend to the North ridge. Further movement is upwards along the ridge, sticking to either the left or the right side. On average, after one hour of walking, two massive gendarmes are encountered (one after another), before which it is necessary to rope up. Then: A small saddle Control cairn I (landmark - a high finger-shaped rock) Further movement is along the ridge, with a rapid gain in altitude. Against the sky above, a massive gendarme in the form of a trident can be seen, 80-100 meters to the left of the route, which is approached by the Northeast ridge. The approach to the base of the gendarme is via moderately difficult rocks. A small wall, 2-2.5 m high, is tackled directly head-on. Then, the entire massif of the gendarme is traversed from the left along inclined ledges (in the autumn-winter period, these are snow-covered), 10-12 m - a bumpy section, with piton belays. From the inclined slabs, there is an exit onto a sharp rocky outcrop, about 4 m high. There is a small platform for organizing a belay. Then, along the crumbling rocks of the ridge, 15-20 m to the descent point to the base of the snow-ice dome of the summit. The descent is via a rappel dolipher, 10-12 m with a steepness of 70°. There is a possibility to organize a descent with subsequent rope retrieval through a protrusion.

Ascent to the summit of Manas (4482 m) along the northern ridge, difficulty category 2B, altitude difference 1000 m, team leader Mukanov K.B.

Climbing area, ridge — С-3 Tian-Shan Talas Ridge Peak, its height, ascent route — Manas, 4482 m, northern ridge Estimated category of difficulty — 2Б Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections 1–5 cat. diff. average steepness deg. — height difference 1000 m, avg. steepness 30°, length of sections: I cat. diff. — 950 m, II cat. diff. — 350 m Number of hooks for belay to create artificial support points: local — 5, ice — 2, bolted — none

### Route Description to Peak Manas via North Spur Category of difficulty, details of passage and belaying, total ascent time 11-12 hours.

The group's entry under the north buttress of Manas peak at 7:30 am from the 3300 m campsite on the moraine, uphill along the slope with a steepness of 30–35°; to the col (100–120 m). Rope up. From the col, move left — directly along the broken rocks. Simultaneous movement (2 hours). Approach the gendarme, which is bypassed on the left as you go. Then again along easy broken rocks to the second gendarme, which is also bypassed on the left. (Snow throughout the entire route.) Continuing along the ridge, bypass the third gendarme on the right and enter a wide icy couloir with a steepness of 35–40° (move in crampons, ice is 10–15 cm thick). Piton belay. Upward along the ice (in the spring period — covered with snow). 80 m to a rocky outcrop (belay spot); and then traverse right to the north ridge — 50 m, with an exit onto the north ridge. Further, bypass the rocks on the right side along the ledges and come under the "Trident" gendarme, which is passed on the left upward along inclined ledges (10–12 m). Alternating belay through outcrops, when passing inclined ledges — piton belay. After the "Trident" gendarme — exit onto a sharp edge (4 m), belay through outcrops. Further movement along broken rocks to a gap. Rope descent (10–12 m), rocks with a steepness of 70°. Movement continues along the icy slope of Manas' cap, covered with snow (move in crampons). Further upward with a traverse to the right to a rocky "tooth" (150–160 m). Then movement along the rocky crest to the pre-summit gendarme — rocks of medium difficulty, 10 m. Descent into the gap (rappel — 7 m) and to the visible summit — 5 min. Total route time — 11–12 hours

Description of a category 3B route to the summit of Manas (4482 m) via the north-eastern ridge in the Talas Alatau range.

Area of ascent, ridge — Talasskiy ridge — Panj Talasskiy ridge Peak, its height, ascent route — Manas, 4482 m N - E ridge Assumed category of difficulty — 3B Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections R1–R5 category of difficulty, average steepness deg. — height difference 1060 m, avg. steepness 40°, length of sections: R1 category of difficulty — 900 m, R3 category of difficulty — 400 m, R2 category of difficulty — 50 m Pitons for belaying to create artificial anchor points: window-type — 4 pcs, dube-type — 2 pcs, ice screws — none

A description of the ascent route to the summit from the "Mazar" base camp via the West Ridge, indicating key landmarks and the duration of the journey.

The ascent from the "Mazar" base camp to the assault camp, located under the shoulder of the West ridge on a large clearing, takes 3 hours. Departure from the camp at 7:00 in the morning. Move up the talus along the gorge to the ridge shoulder. It takes 2 hours to reach the shoulder from the camp. From the shoulder, ascend along the ridge, keeping to the left side of the large talus up to the pre-summit mandara "Zub". Then: ascend along the talus — landmark: ruined rocks; descend along vertical perils to a snowy isthmus; from the isthmus — to the summit along a snowy slope (15–20°).

A description of the technical ascent 1Б category of complexity to the summit of Manas (4482 m) in the Talas Ala-Too range of Tian Shan.

Ascent Passport. I. Ascent class — technical Region of ascent, ridge — 1–3 Tian-Shan Talassky ridge Peak, its height, ascent route — Manas, 4482 m D — 3 ridge Expected category of difficulty — 1B Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I-5 category of difficulty, average steepness in degrees — height difference 1850 m, length of sections: I category of difficulty — 1800 m II category of difficulty — 50 m

Description of the route to the summit of Manas via the Lateral Ridge: a technically easy ascent with belay elements.

From bivouac 3300 "Майские ночёвки", located on the Manas glacier moraine, entrance on the right side (in the direction of travel) of the glacier - 2 hours walk under the saddle. Ascent to the saddle on a snowy slope 30-35°, between Bokovoy Manas and Manas Glavny. Here you should rope up. Further movement along the Bokovoe ridge, on large-block talus, steepness 30-35°; movement - 1 hour. From the ridge, descend into a 10 m gap, handrails are necessary, protection via ledges, pitons. Further ascent to the summit on talus, here too handrails are recommended.

Ascent to the summit of Manas (4482 m) along the southern ridge, difficulty category 1B, height difference 1182 m.

The summit, its height, route ascent — Manas, 4482 m, southern ridge from a. Asmas Assumed category of difficulty — 1B Characteristics of the route: height difference, length of section I–5 cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 1182 m, avg. steepness 30°, length of sections: 1 cat. diff. — 300 m, 2 cat. diff. — 50 m Number of hooks for belay to create artificial support points: rock — 2 pcs., ice — none, bolted — none Number of walking hours — 10 Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — none