4135

Joloe Peak (East), 4355 m

via the north central ridge, cat. 4A (from camp on Joloe Glacier 3560 m)

From the 3560 m bivouac located on the left side of Joloe Glacier, ascend via moraine (snow-covered depending on the season) to the north-central ridge lying to the right of the northern buttress. The ascent to the start of the route is via a snow-ice slope with a slope angle of 35–40° and a length of 120 m, to the left of the lower third of a monolithic rocky triangle.

The route follows the left (as seen from below) edge of the triangle; climbing grade 3–4. Belays are alternating, via projections; use protection gear and pitons. The section is 130–140 m long.

This is followed by a small snow-covered rocky ledge 3–4 m wide, after which there is

• a 35-meter rocky wall with a slope angle of 75–80°, leading to a rocky "window" and the ridge. Belays are via pitons and protection gear. Climbing is difficult. This is the first crux.

The ascent continues along the ridge:

• Belays are alternating until a snow-covered ledge; the ridge is degraded, rocks are grade 2–3.
• Ahead lies a large gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a cleft and then a chimney; the height is 10 m, climbing is difficult, challenging.
• Ahead lies another gendarme, bypassed on the left via rocks - grade 3, length 50 m.
• Exit onto a 10-meter snow-covered shoulder on the right.
• A heavily degraded ridge, 80 m long. Simultaneous movement with rope fixed around projections.
• Then rocks of medium difficulty - 70 m, ending with a sharp rocky "fin" - 6 m; belays are alternating.
• Before a 20-meter snow-ice shoulder lies a 15-meter rocky gendarme.

Directly from the shoulder begins a steep (initially 45° and increasing to 65°) ice ascent, 130 m long, leading to a shoulder on the right of the gendarme. Belays are via pitons. This is the second crux.

Further on:

• Ascend along the pre-summit ridge via loose rocks to a 20-meter wall - the highest point.
• Belays are via pitons and projections; rocks are of medium difficulty.
• Summit cairn.

Descent is via the north-eastern ridge following the cat. 3A route to an overnight stay on Joloe Glacier moraine. The route takes (from camp to camp) 11–12 hours.

As an alternative descent in case of sudden worsening weather, the following can be recommended:

• descent directly from the summit area to the right, following the descent along the north-eastern ridge into the adjacent cirque;
• after traversing two ridges, descend into the Joloe Glacier cirque between routes cat. 4A and cat. 3A and back to the 3560 m camp.

First ascent was made on May 8, 1980 by a group from the USSR Sports Committee team consisting of:

1. V.V. Prokopiev
2. K.B. Mukanov
3. A. Malikov
4. Kh.S. Tashmambetov

Recommendations for climbers:

1. Number of participants - not more than 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac - 3560 m camp on Joloe Glacier (under the wall).
3. Departure from bivouac - 4:00–5:00 am.
4. Equipment for the group:
   1. Main rope - 3 × 40 m
   2. Expendable cordelette - 10–12 m
   3. Ice screws - 5–6 pieces
   4. Rock pitons of various types - 12–14 pieces
   5. Hammers - 2