3. Traverse of Sulakhat massif (3600 m) from the south, in winter — category 2A (Fig. 8)

From Dombay plain past the Alibek alpine camp to the hut on the Alibek glacier moraine. Then up the moraine and, before reaching the upper summer bivouac, exit right onto the Dvuyazychnýy glacier and along the right side of the steep part of the tongue — to the upper plateau. Across the plateau up in the direction of the pass and under the rocky ridge of Kvadratny peak — bivouac (cave). From Dombay plain 7–8 hours. From the bivouac through the depression between Kvadratny peak and Bezýmyannaya I peak to the saddle between Bezýmyannaya I and Bezýmyannaya II peaks and through Bezýmyannaya II peak exit onto the Yuzhno-Sulakhatskoye plateau. Ascent to the South Sulakhat peak via the snow-covered spur of the ridge. From the South peak along the ledge to the couloir and up it to the ridge. (Protection is with pitons! Most difficult section of the traverse!) Past the cairn left of the ridge along the ledge to the last gendarme before the North peak. Bypass the gendarme on the left along the ledge and along the ridge — exit onto the North peak. The path from the bivouac takes 5–6 hours. From the peak, descend back to the saddle between the peak and the gendarme, from here descend along the left side of the couloir onto the Yuzhno-Sulakhatskoye plateau (danger of avalanches in winter!) and return to the bivouac under Kvadratny peak. Descent takes 3–4 hours. From the bivouac to Dombay plain — 3–4 hours. The route is avalanche-prone!

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — under Kvadratny peak.

1. Ascent to Semenov-bashi peak (3608 m) from the southwest — 1b category of difficulty (Fig. 10)

From the “Alibek” alpine camp along the trail through the stream under the waterfall to the bivouac site. From Dombay plain 2.5–3 hours. From the bivouac:

• along the stream up the trail to a steep grassy slope;
• after passing the slope, exit to the left ridge of the upper moraine;
• further along the talus — to a wide couloir divided by a ridge into two parts. Up the ridge and through heavily destroyed rocks — exit under the ridge of the forepeak (in the couloir, it is possible to ascend to the left of the ridge, but the path is more rockfall-prone!). 50–60 m below the ridge — traverse to the right and through a gentle wall (15 m) along the shelves — exit to the forepeak. From the forepeak — descent into the gap (insurance, piton!) and along the destroyed rocks of the ridge (50–60 m) — exit to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit: 5–6 hours. The entire path is rockfall-prone! Descent along the ascent route to Dombay — 6–7 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

Gvandra in Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpine route

From the Myrdal bivouac, ascend via talus and moraines to the snowy slopes on the right. Climb them to reach the plateau of the Myrdal glacier. On the right part of the glacier, via a snow-ice slope, bypassing a rocky outcrop on the right, reach the Ak-Tyube pass, located to the left of the Gvandara Malaya peak. From the bivouac — 2.5 hours. At the pass, turn left and follow the snowy ascents of Gvandara Vostochnaya's eastern ridge to its rocky section:

• Bypass the rocks on the left, along the boundary between snow and rock (protection needed!);
• Then, ascend along the 300-meter snowy ridge — a "knife-edge" (beware of cornices!) to the subpeak. By the end of summer, there may be exposed sections with regelation ice on the ridge. Possibly of interest to you: msklaser.ru — metal flashlights at the best prices in Moscow! From the subpeak, follow the left side of the ridge (with huge cornices on the right!) with steep snowy ascents to reach Gvandara Vostochnaya. From Ak-Tyube pass — 4 hours. Descend via the ascent route. Possibly of interest to you.

241. Bauman Peak via the South Ridge

(combined route, category 2A difficulty, fig. 18, 28). The path from the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-8 people) to the Northwest branch of the Kulak Glacier is described in route 233. Before reaching the Northwest branch, turn right and exit the glacier onto the steep right-bank moraine. Along the moraine, bypass the first step of the Northwest branch glacier's icefall from the right. After the icefall, exit onto the Northwest branch and approach the second, most powerful, step of the icefall from the right side. The second step is bypassed from the right, initially:

• ascending a steep, narrow, heavily destroyed 35-40-meter couloir,
• then traversing above the icefall along smooth rocks. Further, via the "ram's foreheads," exit onto the upper plateau of the Northwest branch of the Kulak Glacier above the second step. From here, cross the upper plateau upwards to the left and approach the lowest saddle of the spur - the Bodorku pass. From the plateau, overcoming the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend a steep ice-snow slope of a wide couloir (avalanches, protection) through a snow cornice onto the saddle of the Bodorku pass. The path from:
• "Chegem" tourist base — 10-12 hours

ASCENT PASS

I. Ascent class: technical. 2. Ascent area: from Gezetau Pass to Gurdzautsek Pass. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Tajmazi Central peak (3700 m) via the northeast counterfort. 4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B category. 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference: 700 m
• Average steepness: 45°
• Length of sections:
  • R1 — 500 m

ADAI VIA THE EASTERN WALL

(combined route, category 4A difficulty) Path from the KSP of the Tsey region to the entrance bivouac on the sites with an exit to the upper snow plateau of the Skazskiy glacier. From the sites (departure at 2–3 a.m. due to rockfall in the lower part of the route) having passed onto the glacier plateau in the direction of the Skazskiy pass 3000, turn right and approach the lowest rocks on the right side of the entire rock belt — the Eastern wall of Adai peak, to the left of the wide snowy slope-gully descending from the peak and its North ridge, dangerous due to rockfall and avalanches. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, exit onto the rocks of the rock belt of the Eastern wall. Through simple and moderately difficult sections of the lower belt (the lower rocks can be bypassed via the snowy slope on the right), then via the snowy slope ascend up to the left, onto the snow-covered lower base of the rock belt. From the shoulder — ascent via snow, then via simple and moderately difficult ruined rocks descend to the left to the lower walls of the Central belt. Above the walls, via steep ruined rocks of moderate difficulty of the lying edge, then via a 10–12 m wall (“live” rocks, piton belay), further 150 m via simple and moderately difficult ruined steep snowy (rockfall possible!) alternating with ice-snow slopes approach the rocky ascent of the Central belt. Traverse the ascent via smooth rocks (moderately difficult) of the internal corner (piton belay) with an exit from it onto the right edge of the triangular gray rocky pre-summit belt.

130. Eastern Bokos via the South slope (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 29). The path from the village of Dzinaga or from the tourist center of the Tsey region (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau near the western saddle of Shovi - Karaugom pass is described in route 83. From the bivouac, across the snowy plateau of the Western branch (closed crevasses) and slope, exit to the left side of the South ridge (cornice) of the Eastern Bokos peak. Without reaching the ridge, along the snowy slope on the left side of the South ridge, gradually increasing in steepness, move left into the second snowy couloir. Then:

• Along the steep snowy slope of the narrowing couloir, 350-400 m left - upwards (avalanche risk) to its end.

132. Bokos Western (4060 m) via Western Ridge (ice and snow route, category 2B, fig. 29). The path from the CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevasses), approach the wide leftmost snow couloir rising to the Western ridge of the Western Bokos peak, to the right (east) of the Big rocky gendarme. From the plateau, ascend a steep 120-150-meter snow slope to the bergschrund and cross it in the middle part via a snow bridge. Continue up a steep snow slope (avalanche risk) for 150-200 m to the Western Ridge saddle (belay required). On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snow-covered rocks of the Western Ridge, then a steep 80-100-meter ice and snow slope (running belay) to the Northern Ridge (cornices). Turn right here and:

• ascend a sharp, steep 40-50-meter Northern Ridge (cornices)
• then ascend simple, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks to reach the "Western Bokos" summit. From the plateau - 3-4 hours. Descend via the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976. BUTSP

126. Bu­bis (4428 m) via North Ridge-slope (the route is combined, cat. 2B, fig. 20, 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzina­ga (a group of 4-20 people) to the Tsey-Karaugom pass with an initial bivouac on the North branch of the Tsey glacier or on the Karaugom plateau below the pass is described in route 83. At the pass (when ascending from the Tsey glacier), turn left and approach the crevasse in the North Ridge-slope of Bubis Peak via a snowy slope. Having passed the crevasse over a snow bridge, ascend a steep 120-150-meter ice-snow North Ridge-slope, to the right of the rocky ridge (avalanches are possible - piton belay) with two rocky outcrops, then ascend easy rocks to the summit of Bubis. 2-3 hours from the pass. Descent is via the ascent route. Descent from the pass to the Tsey glacier in the second half of the day is rockfall-dangerous. Duration of the route:

• 3 days. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Di­goria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., “Fizkultura i sport”, 1976.

209. Latsga via East Ridge (combined route, A. Bespalova, category III difficulty, fig. 24, 30). From the starting bivouac of the Garvash Pass (route 205) turn left and approach the first rocky ascent of the East Ridge of Latsga peak via scree. Ascend 200–250 m up the easy, then moderately difficult (belay required) rocks of the East Ridge to the “Finger” rock pinnacle. Bypass the “Finger” on the left and continue on the moderately difficult rocks of the East Ridge to the second ascent. From below the second ascent:

• 20 m along the ledge leftward
• then 35–40 m up moderately difficult rocks (pitons) to the ascent
• 150 m along the narrow snow-ice ridge (cornices) of the East Ridge to the third ascent, which is overcome directly via 20 m of moderately difficult rocks (pitons). Then along:
• 400–500 m long snow-ice East Ridge (cornices) ascend to the summit of Latsga. From the Garvash Pass – 5-6 hours.

210. Latsga from the south via the East Ridge couloir (combined route, category II difficulty, fig. 24, 30). From the initial bivouac on the snow plateau below the Garvash Pass (route 205) ascend 250–300 m up the first steep snow-ice, then easy but destroyed rocky, wide south couloir from the Garvash Pass (avalanche risk, belay required) to the East Ridge (cornices) of Latsga peak.