TALGAR — main peak (5017 m)

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Ascent to the Main peak of Talgar via the West wall, route 4B cat. difficulty (Fig. 41, 41a). From the Talgar mountaineering camp along the trail upstream along the Middle Talgar gorge to the Edelweiss glade. Turn towards the South Talgar glacier. It takes two hours to reach the glacier tongue. From here, along the right lateral moraine of the glacier, overcoming numerous crevices, there is an exit to a gently sloping (20°) glacier slope covered with small stones. Having ascended along this section of the glacier, exit to the left lateral moraine. Here is a possible overnight stay location. From here, the route begins. The path goes along an ice couloir, expanding in the upper part, with a steepness of 35–40°, and a length of about 450 m. The couloir leads to the ridge of the western counterfort of the South Talgar peak. On the left side, the couloir is bounded by ice-covered rocks, and on the right, it turns into ice walls. The ascent should be started from the left part of the couloir, along the ice slope, sticking to the rocks. Walk in crampons; in the upper part, step cutting is necessary. It takes 2 hours and 30 minutes to reach the ridge. Here is an overnight stay location. On the next day, the path begins with two ice ascents with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of about 500 m. In the upper part of the ascents, there is a small icefall. Walk the entire time in crampons. Crevices are not wide and are easily crossed. In some places, there is burned ice, requiring piton belay and step cutting. After 2–3 hours, there is an exit to an ice ascent, and then, after 15–20 minutes of walking along a descending snow-ice plateau, heading east, approach the base of the West wall of the Main Talgar peak.

Fur­ther mo­ve­ment along a small cou­loir and rocks with an exit to the counter­force. After two hun­dred me­ters, there is an exit to the Main summit of Tal­gar. The des­cent from the summit to the south-east along a snowy ridge to a wide cou­loir, along which the route is com­pleted:

• des­cent to the Kor­zhenevs­ko­go gla­cier
• fur­ther through the Su­rovy saddle to the area of the al­pi­nist camp «Tal­gar» If there is a crust on the gla­cier, the whole des­cent takes up to nine hours.

Rec­om­men­da­ti­ons for clim­bers

1. Num­ber of par­ti­ci­pants - no more than 4 peo­ple.
2. Ini­tial bi­vouac on the mo­raine of the South Tal­gar gla­cier.

Ascent from the Tagiltsev Pass, route 1Б cat. diff. (Fig. 17). The Koptau peak is located in the New spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge between the Tagiltsev and TEU passes. The path to the Koptau peak from the Talgar alpine camp goes along the trail up the gorge to the Green Glade, then you need to:

• cross two streams flowing from the Shokalsky Glacier;
• approach the lake at the tongue of the North TEU Glacier. Here is the overnight stay. From the bivouac site to the Tagiltsev Pass. The exit to the pass is via a couloir with small and medium scree. There are snow patches. Steepness is 30–35°. At the bottom, the couloir is wide, with a rocky ridge in the middle. In the middle part, the couloir is divided into three narrow couloirs. It's better to go along the left one, which is wider and less prone to falling rocks. After 40–50 m, the pass point is reached. From the Tagiltsev Pass, follow the snowy ridge to the south to a large inclined gendarme. The ascent to the gendarme is in its middle part. Move with caution: the rocks are destroyed. Turn right and exit to an inclined platform. Descend from the gendarme to the left, initially along the second inner corner for about five meters. Then proceed to the second destroyed gendarme, which is bypassed on the left. The further route follows the snowy ridge. There are cornices on the left, and a slope turning into an ice wall on the right. The ridge has three height drops. After an hour of movement, the summit is reached. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire ascent from the initial bivouac takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is not limited.

Route Description

Peak Kosmodemyanskaya is located in the western branch of the Maloalmatinsky spur, which is the watershed of the Malaya and Bolshaya Almatinka rivers. Ridges extend from it to the northeast, northwest, and south. On the northeastern side, a small eponymous glacier descends from the slopes. The approach to the route begins from the Tuyuksu glacier in the direction of the Lokomotiv pass on the southeastern side of Peak Kosmodemyanskaya. A wide couloir (in winter, filled with snow) at the beginning of the route R0 leads to a talus couloir, which exits onto the southeastern ridge. Then:

• A small wall leads to a несложный (uncomplicated) ridge of 1–2 cat. dif.
• Further — a talus couloir, turning into an inner corner;
• The end of the route — the exit to the summit of Peak Kosmodemyanskaya.

Route Description

Peak Kosmodemyanskaya is located in the western branch of the Malo-Almatinsky ridge, which is a watershed of the Malaya and Bolshaya Almatinka rivers. Ridges stretch from it to the northeast, northwest, and south. On the northeastern side, a small eponymous glacier descends from its slopes. The initial bivouac is organized on the platforms among the ancient moraine ramparts of the Molodezhny glacier. Then:

• Go to the left lateral moraine of the Tuyuk-Su glacier and along it — to the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier.
• Ascend to the upper snow plateau.
• Move along the ridge between the first and second gendarmes to the very summit. From the saddle:
• Ascend along the large talus to the right rib of the second gendarme.

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part of the table

Description of the traverse of the Maloalmatinsky spur section

Through the line: O. Koshevoi — Iskra — Molodaya Gvardiya

The traverse begins with the ascent to the summit of O. Koshevoi. The ascent is made along the western ridge. You can climb in two ways:

• from the west through the couloir (to the right of the western wall as you go);
• along the western wall. The ascent through the couloir is not difficult, category 1B. The ascent along the western wall of the peak was first made by the mentioned groups of U. Usenov and V. Alekseev in 1954 and classified as category 3B. While making the traverse of O. Koshevoi — "Iskra" — Molodaya Gvardiya, the group of the Kazakh club started the ascent to the peak Koshevoi along the western wall. The first part of the wall is traversed through a couloir (to the left of the couloir leading to the forepeak). In winter conditions, the couloir is filled with snow. It is more convenient to move along simple rocks with insurance.

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Kazakh Republican Climbers' Club

Description of the ascent to the peak named after Sarym Kuderin

Alma-Ata, 1966 The Sarym Kuderin peak is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau in the area of the Gorodetsky Glacier northeast of the Legostaev peak. The peak is double-headed. The eastern dome is named Sarym Kuderin peak. The height of the peak is 4300 m above sea level. To the north-northwest, a hanging glacier descends. The north buttress is a rocky part. The steepness of the rocks is up to 55–65°. The rocks are destroyed. The snow line starts from the north at a height of 3500–3600 m. To the south, there are snowy slopes, to the east - a ridge to a nameless peak with cornices. The ascent in winter conditions was made at the beginning of December 1964 by a group of the "Burevestnik" sports society. Approaches:

• From the Alma-Ata lake along the trail.
• In the area of alpine meadows, the trail is snowed in.

Location, History of Ascent, and Approach Routes

Peak named after I. V. Kurchatov is located in one of the spurs of the Left Talgar river basin and closes the Rusakova river gorge, which flows into the Left Talgar river (see map). The peak is clearly visible from the Kuldzhinsky tract on the segment between Malaya Stanitsa and Almaty tobacco farm, and has an impressive appearance. Its approximate height is 4200 m. It is not surprising that, being unclimbed, it attracted the attention of mountaineers from the Institute of Nuclear Physics of the Academy of Sciences of the Kazakh SSR. From the scientific town of INF, its summit stands out with its strict outlines against the background of surrounding peaks (photo 1, 2). Therefore, in August 1966, a group of mountaineers from INF consisting of:

• Saprykin V. D. — Master of Sports
• Il'inykh A. M. — 3rd sports category
• Gubanova A. M. — 3rd sports category
• Mukhamedshina D. M. — 3rd sports category accompanied by an observation group, made the first ascent to the unnamed peak 4200 m. Paying tribute to the achievements of the outstanding Soviet physicist I. V. Kurchatov (1903–1960), the mountaineer-physicists, as the first ascenders, named the conquered peak after I. V. Kurchatov.

Peak Legostaeva (4392 m)

Ascent via the southern ridge — beyond category difficulty (Fig. 7)

The peak, named after one of the first Kazakhstani alpinists Legostaev, is located in the upper reaches of the left tributary of the Ozernaia River, in the cirque of the Cherny Glacier. A small spur extends south from the summit, on the western slope of which there is a hanging glacier of the same name. Fig. 7 It is convenient to organize the initial bivouac at Ozerny Pass. Descend into the Almaty River valley and, bypassing a series of rocky ridges, reach

Location, Approach Route, and Ascent History

The peak named after the youth newspaper "Leninskaya Smena" is located in the central ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. Its western ridge descends to the well-known Ozerny pass, through which a tourist path leads to the shores of Lake Issyk-Kul (see the map of the Leninskaya Smena peak area). From Almaty Lake, the approach to the peak is made along a well-trodden path up the gorge, along the Ozerny River, which flows into the lake. The time it takes to approach from the lake to the confluence of the South-Eastern River and Ozerny River is about 4 hours. Further, the path goes to Ozerny pass along both the right and left banks of the Ozerny River:

• The approach to the peak is more convenient along the right (orographic) bank.
• The descent is along the left (orographic) bank. From the confluence of the rivers to the tongue of the glacier, flowing west from the northern ridge of the Leninskaya Smena peak, it takes another 1.5–2 hours. The most acceptable and convenient path to the summit is the ridge that branches off from the northern ridge and merges with it not far from the summit (see the map). It was along this ridge that the first ascenders took the path in 1956 (a group of climbers from the Kazakh club led by Kucherenko G.). A group of climbers from the Institute of Nuclear Physics of the Kazakh SSR Academy of Sciences, led by Saprykin V.D., climbed the same route on September 2, 1956, and this description was compiled based on that ascent.