Ak-Bashi from Ak Pass, combined, 2A

Route description:

From "Trud" campsite ascend snowy talus slopes to the foot of Ak Pass. Reach the pass via talus slope with small ledges. From the pass, follow the ridge left, bypassing the first sentinel on the right. In the first half of summer, when the ledges are covered with snow, the sentinel is ascended "head-on" along its crest. Then, via ledges right of the ridge, reach its snowy section. Ascend 400-meter snowy ridge to a saddle before the first summit. The summit is ascended via broken rocks. Descend from the summit into a gap along the right side of the ridge (loose rocks!). From here, via talus gully and broken ridge, ascend the main summit of Ak-Bashi. 6 hours from the campsite. Descent from the summit via the ascent route to the campsite takes 3 hours.

• Departure time from the campsite should be no later than 5:00;
• Ascending to Lozhny Ak Pass is not recommended as snow slabs are possible on the slope at the beginning of summer, and a steep glacier becomes exposed by the pass in autumn.

63. Kichkidar via Western slope of the Southern ridge (route is combined, 2A cat., fig. 5, 7). The path from the “Jailyk” alp camp (group of 4–12 people) to the upper plateau of the Zapadny Yunum glacier with the initial bivouac at the “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochovki” is described in route 73. Across the glacier plateau (closed crevasses) approach the snowy-ice Western slope on the left side of the saddle of the massif, which connects the Kichkidar peak on the left and the Yunumkara peak on the right. From the glacier, having crossed the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend 180–200 m up the steep snowy-ice Western slope to the snowy-ice saddle (possible cornices) to the left of the two rocky towers of the Zaitsev. On the saddle, turn left and along the wide snowy-ice ridge (cornices) of the saddle, approach the ascent to the Kichkidar tower summit. Along the steep easy rocks of the ascent, bypassing the gendarme on the left, with a 10-meter wall (belay) on the Southern ridge, ascend to the summit of Kichkidar. From the “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochovki” 3–3.5 hours.

165. Lekzyr Severnaya via the Eastern slope of the Southern ridge (combined route, category 2B, fig. 24, 26). At Tot pass (item 160. turn right and reach the snowy eastern slope of Lekzyr Severnaya peak. From here, 300–400 m up-left along a gentle snowy slope (avalanches, rocks), in the upper part along the rocks or to the right of them — to reach the shoulder of the snowy counterfort. Up along the counterfort, then cross left a wide snowy couloir (avalanches, rocks) of the saddle between Severnaya and Glavnaya peaks and reach a vaguely expressed ridge. From here, 80–100 m up along steep easy destroyed and snowy rocks of

Traverse of peaks Ozyorny - Khimik, combined, Category 3

Route description:

From the Ulutau alpine base through the sports ground, where the trail begins, which goes past the former "Churko dorm", then along the stream (to the left of the stream), flowing from under the glacier on the northern slope of the "Treugolnik" peak. Further, the trail turns left and goes along the rocky outcrops to the training rocks "over the camp". Here the trail is lost, you need to move up the grassy slopes to the moraine deposits and further along the moraine deposits and ascents up past the cirques of the Treugolnik and Moskovsky Komsomolets peaks to Ozyorny lake. There are bivouac sites near the lake. Going around the lake to the right, you come out onto the Ozyorny glacier. Straight ahead will be the ridge between peaks Zimny and Ozyorny (a pronounced depression in the ridge). You need to move not to this ridge, but to move along the glacier to the right along the long "fence" of the Northwest ridge of peak Ozyorny to a wide snow, in the lower part scree, couloir with a clearly visible ridge in the ridge before the gendarme. Up the couloir to the right past rocky outcrops (to the right) to the ridge. The first gendarme is bypassed on the left along the shelves, then exit to the right onto the ridge and further along the ridge to the next gendarme, which can be bypassed on the right along the shelves and come out onto a large snow ridge, from which the pre-summit snow and ice ascents open up. Here it is possible to organize a bivouac, since further movement goes entirely on snow, which in the second half of the day becomes very soggy.

172. Svetgar East via the North Edge (combined route, K. Tolstova, cat. 4B, fig. 24, 27). From the col between the North and East summits of Svetgar (route 171) go left and 200 m up destroyed rocks and a gently sloping snow-ice slope on the right side of the first rocky outcrop of the North Edge, then along moderately difficult rocks of the North Edge to a ledge. 1.5 hours from the col. From the ledge, along moderately difficult rocks, passing a shoulder, reach a snow-ice slope. Then go 300–400 m up a steep snow-ice slope-ridge with rock outcrops (covered crevasses, cornices) to below the second rocky outcrop of the North Edge. Below the second outcrop, at the boundary between ice and rock, go right. Then go 60–80 m up rocks of above-average difficulty («loose» stones) to a snow-ice slope. Then go 30–40 m along a steep snow-ice slope, then along rocks of above-average difficulty to below the Big Gendarme. From below the gendarme, 30–40 m to the right and along rocks of above-average difficulty with short difficult sections of a corner-couloir, 60–80 m up to a ledge behind the Big Gendarme. From the ledge, 150–200 m up a snow-ice slope, a ridge, and difficult rocks of the North Edge. Then go 280–300 m along the steep, sharp snow-ice (cornices) North Edge, overcoming II and III gendarmes head-on, and IV and V gendarmes, bypassing them on the right («loose» stones), to ascend to the summit of Svetgar East. 10–12 hours from the initial bivouac.

Fig. 6

Т­Ю­Т­Ю Рис. 10 becomes Т­Ю­Т­Ю Fig. 10

272. Ullutau Western peak via Western ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 18, 30).

The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the Garvash pass is described in route 278. From the saddle platforms, follow the straightforward, heavily damaged and snow-covered (cornices) rocky Western ridge, passing three ascents, to approach the Teeth, which are bypassed by traversing from the left, and then approach the wall (5-8 m high). The wall is overcome directly via medium-difficulty rocks (pitons insurance). Then, along a narrow 40-60-meter ridge, approach the couloir on the right side of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, insurance). Up the steep rocks on the left side of the narrowing snow-covered 80-90-meter couloir - ascent ("live" rocks, pitons insurance) to the Western shoulder. From the Western shoulder, ascend to the summit of Ullutau Western peak via the rocks of the Western ridge. From the Garvash pass, it takes 3-4 hours.

South-east, 1B cat.

From Dombai clearing or h/c "Alibek" along the trail and grassy slopes and talus exit under Khrustalny pass, traverse steep spurs of the eastern ridge of Semenov-Bashi peak. Place for a bivouac — 3–4 hours. From the bivouac:

• Along a gentle slope in the direction of Khrustalny pass and, 100–150 m before the pass, left up a branched couloir.
• Up the couloir to the eastern ridge. Rockfall hazard!
• Then left along the ridge to the summit. Gendarmes are bypassed mainly on the right, downhill.
• At the beginning of summer — snow cornices on the north.