Route Description
Peak Kosmodemyanskaya is located in the western branch of the Maloalmatinsky spur, which is the watershed of the Malaya and Bolshaya Almatinka rivers. Ridges extend from it to the northeast, northwest, and south. On the northeastern side, a small eponymous glacier descends from the slopes.
The approach to the route begins from the Tuyuksu glacier in the direction of the Lokomotiv pass on the southeastern side of Peak Kosmodemyanskaya. A wide couloir (in winter, filled with snow) at the beginning of the route R0 leads to a talus couloir, which exits onto the southeastern ridge. Then:
- A small wall leads to a несложный (uncomplicated) ridge of 1–2 cat. dif.
- Further — a talus couloir, turning into an inner corner;
- The end of the route — the exit to the summit of Peak Kosmodemyanskaya.
Recommendations
- Number of participants — 6–8 people.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Tuyuksu glacier.
- Departure from the bivouac at 5–6 am.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
• main rope — 2×40 m • rock pitons — 2 pcs • hammers — 1 pc • carabiners — 2 pcs
(1)
1B cat. dif. via the SE slope couloir
From Mountain.kz website