Ascent from the Tagiltsev Pass, route 1Б cat. diff. (Fig. 17).
The Koptau peak is located in the New spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge between the Tagiltsev and TEU passes. The path to the Koptau peak from the Talgar alpine camp goes along the trail up the gorge to the Green Glade, then you need to:
- cross two streams flowing from the Shokalsky Glacier;
- approach the lake at the tongue of the North TEU Glacier.
Here is the overnight stay.
From the bivouac site to the Tagiltsev Pass. The exit to the pass is via a couloir with small and medium scree. There are snow patches. Steepness is 30–35°. At the bottom, the couloir is wide, with a rocky ridge in the middle. In the middle part, the couloir is divided into three narrow couloirs. It's better to go along the left one, which is wider and less prone to falling rocks. After 40–50 m, the pass point is reached.
From the Tagiltsev Pass, follow the snowy ridge to the south to a large inclined gendarme. The ascent to the gendarme is in its middle part. Move with caution: the rocks are destroyed. Turn right and exit to an inclined platform. Descend from the gendarme to the left, initially along the second inner corner for about five meters. Then proceed to the second destroyed gendarme, which is bypassed on the left.
The further route follows the snowy ridge. There are cornices on the left, and a slope turning into an ice wall on the right. The ridge has three height drops. After an hour of movement, the summit is reached. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire ascent from the initial bivouac takes 7–8 hours.
Recommendations for Climbers
- The number of participants is not limited.
- Initial bivouac is near the lake at the tongue of the North TEU Glacier.
- Departure from the initial bivouac is not later than 5:00 a.m.
Fig. 17