Soviet Alpinists (4379 m)

Ascent to the West summit via the northwest ridge — category 1B difficulty

North of the Molodaya Gvardiya peak, a ridge called Turistov stretches from the Malo-Almatinsky spur towards the Leviy Talgar gorge. Here, immediately beyond the branch, the Soviet Alpinists peaks, West and Main, rise. The initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Mutny glacier. The ascent route runs through the Turistov pass (4030 m) along the northwest ridge of the peak. From the pass, turn south, moving along the scree towards large rock fragments, then onto the rocky ridge. The rocks are easy, moderately difficult, and heavily weathered. After 100–120 m, move into a couloir with a slab-like structure. The rock is heavily damaged (be cautious!). Traverse the couloir to the right, ascend to a rock tower and bypass it on the right. Further, the route passes along the northwest rocky ridge past easy gendarmes to a firn section with a slope of 35–40°. Then, again rocks lead to the West summit. The ascent from the pass to the West summit takes 4–5 hours. The climb is not recommended for a large group due to the severe rock damage. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants: 6–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Mutny glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 6:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people — 2 × 30 m dynamic rope.

Ascent to Sportivnaya peak from the northwest via Sportivny glacier, route 2nd cat. dif. From Talgar alpine camp:

• East along the trail
• Past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge
• Turn right
• Initially along the grassy slope
• Then along the large moraine stones of Sportivny glacier The moraine has elevation changes. Overnight stay on the moraine. From the overnight site, reach the snowy slope of the ridge branching off from Sportivnaya peak

Fig. 46

REPORT on the first ascent via the North-North-West ridge Group of instructors from TALGAR alpine camp

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — Rock (Combined) 2. Ascent Region — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Sportivnaya, 4000 m, North-North-West edge 4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics — height difference — 600 m, average steepness ≥ 50°?; length of sections: I difficulty cat. — 150 m, II difficulty cat. — 405 m, III difficulty cat. — 655 m, IV difficulty cat. — 180 m, V difficulty cat. — none, VI difficulty cat. — none 6. Pitons hammered: for belay, for creating intermediate belay anchors

Minutes of the Uzelskaya Classification Commission Meeting

July 29, 1978 Talgar Alpine Camp The Uzelskaya Classification Commission, appointed by the authorized Sports Committee of the USSR for the Tian-Shan region, Comrade R.P. Stroganov (order No. 6 dated July 28, 1978), consisting of:

1. V.N. Zapeka — senior instructor, Master of Sports — Chairman of the Commission
2. A.V. Kelberg — senior instructor, Master of Sports — member of the commission
3. E.L. Vardanov — senior instructor, Candidate for Master of Sports — member
4. V.A. Ganyalin — senior instructor, Candidate for Master of Sports — member
5. V.I. Shabrukov — instructor, 1st sports category — member

Ascent Passport

1: Class of ascent — combined 2: Region of ascent — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge 3. Peak Sportivnaya, height 4000 m, western ridge 4. Presumed category of difficulty — 3B 5. Characteristics of the route:

• height difference — 700 m.
• length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 20 m.
• average steepness — 40°

6. Pitons driven:

Category 3A route. Protocol №3 from 15.10.1962.

DESCRIPTION OF THE TRAVERSE ROUTE OF SYPUCHAYA PEAK VIA THE NORTH-EAST RIDGE

From the bivouac located on the North TEU glacier moraine, ascend the moraines towards the talus descending from the Round Tower of Sypuchaya peak. After 30 minutes, the talus is reached, and the ascent continues along its right side where the talus is coarser. Another 30 minutes of ascent leads to a col between a tooth-shaped gendarme and a red gendarme. The path then bypasses the Tooth gendarme on the left, heading towards the second gendarme, which has a reddish hue. After 25 minutes, the col before the gendarme is reached. Here, it is necessary to rope up. The reddish gendarme is tackled head-on. The path to the gendarme goes through a cleft with careful piton protection, to a platform that is 15 m above the col. During the ascent, 2-3 pitons need to be placed. The rocks are monolithic. Further ascent is along moderately difficult rocks with careful piton protection. The time taken to ascend the gendarme is up to one and a half hours. Along the ascent path, on a small platform, a cairn is built. The ascent goes along the right side of the gendarme; the rocks are slab-like with good handholds. The gendarme is up to 80 m high. Descent: first along an inclined slab, then along the talus. After descending, there is an exit to a "window," bypassing the third gendarme on the left. The gendarmes are bypassed along ledges without losing height. The ledges lead to a trough-like couloir ending with a "plug." Ascend this couloir to the ridge. The ascent time is 1.5 hours. The ridge consists of broken rocks, and it is possible to move simultaneously.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Sredniy Talgar gorge. 3. Peak TAGANAI, 3800 m, West wall. 4. Estimated cat. difficulty — 2B 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 430 m.
• Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — none
• Average steepness — 60°.

6. Pitons hammered in:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Middle Talgar gorge.
3. Peak TAGANAI, 3800 m, southeast ridge.
4. Presumed complexity category — 2B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 470 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections — none, average steepness — 35°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 5, ice — none, bolt — none, for creating artificial holds — none.
7. Number of climbing hours — 6 hours