Further movement along a small couloir and rocks with an exit to the counterforce. After two hundred meters, there is an exit to the Main summit of Talgar.
The descent from the summit to the south-east along a snowy ridge to a wide couloir, along which the route is completed:
- descent to the Korzhenevskogo glacier
- further through the Surovy saddle to the area of the alpinist camp «Talgar»
If there is a crust on the glacier, the whole descent takes up to nine hours.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants - no more than 4 people.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of the South Talgar glacier.
- Departure from the initial bivouac no later than 4:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2 × 30 m; b) auxiliary rope 1 × 40 m; c) rock pitons 25 pcs.; d) ice screws 68 pcs.; e) carabiners 20 pcs.; f) hammers 2 pcs.; g) 1.5-meter ladders 2 pcs.; h) expendable repschnur 20 m.