I. Climbing class - winter 2. Region - Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range 3. Peak Semenova-Tian-Shansky (4875 m) via 103 wall, combined route 4. Assumed difficulty category - 5B, first ascent 5. Height difference: 1225 m, length - 1600 m Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 570 m Average slope of the main part of the route

• 63° (3650-4250 m)

6. Pitons driven: rock pitons 49 17 chocks 99 36

Description of the ascent to Peak Taranovoi via the North Ridge From the "Ala-Archa" alpine camp, the trail goes up the gorge. We ford the Ak-Sai River by stepping on stones. Further on, we follow a good trail to the Teke-Tor River, which is also easily forded a little above its confluence with the Ala-Archa River. Before reaching the Tuyuk-Su River, the trail turns left up a steep grassy slope. We set up a bivouac by a lake located before a steep rise of the old moraine. From the alpine camp to the moraine, it takes 4 hours of walking. From the bivouac, we ascend via the trail to the left of the lake onto the old moraine. We overcome another rise of the moraine and reach the river. We walked along the right bank of the river to the glacier. Having ascended onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier, we ascend via the middle part of the glacier, which is the most gentle. Crevasses are circumvented. We orient ourselves towards the snowy dome of the "School 67" peak. To the left lies the Taranovoi Pass, and further left, the peak is visible. The ascent route to Peak Taranovoi via category 1B route is visible. We continue moving along the glacier towards the North edge of this peak. A bergschrund is visible. We cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge. Insurance is provided through an ice axe. After the bergschrund, we ascend a 50-60 m ice slope with a 30-35° incline onto a saddle on the North ridge of Peak Taranovoi. Piton insurance is used. It takes 3 hours 30 minutes from the bivouac by the lake to the saddle.

по пол­кам или кру­тым глад­ким пли­там does not need translation as the original text is in Russian. Here is the translation: along shelves or steep smooth plates. Careful belaying with pitons. Then through (a sleeping window) we exit onto a 5-meter rocky ridge, which we traversed with a rope. Further on, the route follows rocks of medium difficulty. There are two 7–8 meter walls, which are taken head-on — 3 rock pitons. Through simple rocks, we exit onto the summit. Control point. We found a note from a group of climbers from the Kyrgyz State University, who made an ascent to Peak I May in 1957 via the Southwest Ridge, route category 1B. The ascent from the col to the summit took 7 hours.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan, West Kokshaal-Too ridge
3. Summit — 5160 m (Vityaz peak) via NE ridge
4. Planned — 5A category, first ascent
5. Height difference — 1010 m. Length of sections:

• 4th category — 425 m.
• 5th category — 460 m. Average steepness:

Passport.

1. Class: technical.
2. Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau.
3. Peak Gornykh Voditeley (4730 m) via NW ridge.
4. Proposed category: 2B, combined.
5. Height difference: 500 m, length: 1500 m. Average steepness of the rocky part is 45°, snow and ice part is 30°.
6. Pitons: rock - 0, ice - 0, chockstones - 2.
7. Climbing time: 4 hours.
8. Overnight stays: none.
9. Leader: Boyko V.V., Master of Sports.

I. Category of ascent: HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL 2. Area of ascent: KOK-SHAAL-TAU RANGE, DJUREK TRACT 3. Route of ascent with indication of peaks and their heights: NORTH-WEST WALL, TENDING TO THE NORTH (azimuth 340°) p. DANKOV, 5982 m 4. Characteristics of ascent: HEIGHT DIFFERENCE 2000 m AVERAGE STEEPNESS 70° — 540 m, LENGTH OF DIFFICULT SECTIONS 54 5. Number of pitons hammered: ROCK — 190 pcs., ICE — 35 pcs., BOLTED — 9 pcs. 6. Number of travel hours: 91 Number of hours spent on preliminary processing: 29.5 hours

REPORT

on the first ascent of Peak Dankov (5982 m) via the Southwest wall, announced in the championship of the Armed Forces of the USSR on mountaineering in the 1972 season

Team: SKA SAVO

August 1972 Team captain — A. Ilyinsky, B. Gulnev Team coach — L. Kiselev Alma-Ata, 1972

1. Characteristics of the Region

The West Kok-Shaal-Tau ridge is oriented in the latitudinal direction. To the south, it is adjacent to the Takla-Makan desert, and to the north, it is bounded by the powerful mountain ranges of Terskey-Alatau, Boroldoi, and Jetym (Fig. 1).

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical
2. Tian Shan, western Kokshaal-Too
3. Peak Dankova via NNE ridge (5982 m)
4. Category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1650 m Distance — 2200 m. Category 5B difficulty sections — 580 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°
6. Pitons used: rock 14/2, nuts 8, ice screws 74
7. Climbing hours — 22 and days — 3