168
Kazakh Republican Climbers' Club
Description of the ascent to the peak named after Sarym Kuderin
Alma-Ata, 1966 The Sarym Kuderin peak is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau in the area of the Gorodetsky Glacier northeast of the Legostaev peak. The peak is double-headed. The eastern dome is named Sarym Kuderin peak. The height of the peak is 4300 m above sea level. To the north-northwest, a hanging glacier descends. The north buttress is a rocky part. The steepness of the rocks is up to 55–65°. The rocks are destroyed. The snow line starts from the north at a height of 3500–3600 m.
To the south, there are snowy slopes, to the east - a ridge to a nameless peak with cornices. The ascent in winter conditions was made at the beginning of December 1964 by a group of the "Burevestnik" sports society.
Approaches:
- From the Alma-Ata lake along the trail.
- In the area of alpine meadows, the trail is snowed in.
- Higher, the snow is deeper (up to 50–70 cm).
- To the tongue of the glacier, the trail had to be beaten with difficulty.
The ascent to the summit was complicated by:
- severe frost (16–18°);
- wind;
- in areas blown by the wind - bare ice;
- had to cut steps.
The ascent took 12 hours from the bivouac on the tongue of the Gorodetsky Glacier. The group descended from the summit in the dark. The category of complexity in winter conditions is 2B.
The ascent should be started from the northwest to the eastern dome along the rocky buttress. Crossing the Gorodetsky Glacier, the group should approach the northern slope and start the ascent straight up the snow to the right of the rocks along the snowy tie-in to the saddle on the northwest buttress. In the upper part, when climbing to the saddle, there are ice sections. The overall steepness of the snow-ice section is 45–50°. In case the ascent is made by a group in November–December, then most of the way to the saddle is an ice slope. Piton insurance is necessary.
After reaching the saddle, the ascent continues along the buttress: first, a little below the ridge along the snow, then you need to go out onto the ridge itself and continue the ascent no longer from the northwest, but straight from the north. On the way, the most difficult are two sections:
- a section of ice when exiting to the dome itself (two ice pitons are driven in);
- a rocky gendarme when exiting to the pre-summit of the peak (two rock pitons are driven in).
Both difficult sections are passed with thorough insurance. The gendarme in the upper part is destroyed. From the top of the gendarme, the path goes along a gentle snowy slope to the very summit (about 200 m). In some places, there are ice crevices, weakly covered with snow. At the summit - a cairn. In the cairn, there is a porcelain photograph of Sarym Kuderin.
Descent along the ascent route.
Difficult sections
- Snow-ice tie-in. Steepness 45–50°. Piton insurance.
- Ice section when exiting to the dome. Steepness 60–65°. Length 20 m.
- Rocky gendarme. Steepness 60–65°. Length 40 m. Piton insurance.
The group evaluates the route as 2B category of complexity in summer and 2B category of complexity in winter conditions.
The first ascent was made in October 1956 by A. Maryashev and Yu. Koveshnikov. In winter, a group of the "Burevestnik" sports society climbed on December 5–6, 1964.
Description compiled by Alexey Maryashev.