Russian Championship in Alpinism

High-Altitude Technical Class 2020

Report

on the ascent to Peak Kupol, 2954 m, via the V plecha wall, 6A category of complexity, Afanasiev's route, by the team from Krasnoyarsk, August 13, 2020.

I. Ascent Passport

2010 Russian Mountaineering Championship. First Ascent Category

The summit of Kupol (2954 m) via the center of the North face of the East shoulder. Route category 6B (approx.), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1 Irkutsk Region team

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.
2. Summit Kupol (2954 m), via the center of the North face of the East shoulder.
3. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 850 m Route length: 1218 m Main part height difference: 680 m

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Pik Lyubvi 2121 m via waterfall ice on the right stream of the SW ridge
3. Proposed 2B category of difficulty in winter, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined. Elevation gain: 1111 m (GPS); Average slope of the entire route: 32°; Total route length: 2100 m; VI category of difficulty: 0 m; V category of difficulty: 0 m;

Ascent Certificate for Mt. Mamlyuk, 2410 m, via the Western slope, cat. 1B, diff. cat.

1. East Sayan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Serga cirque (Veter region), section 6.1.2. 2. Mt. Mamlyuk (2410) via the Western slope. 3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent. 4. Route type: combined. 5. Height gain 350 m, length 860 m, average slope 20°. 6. Pitons used: rock and chocks — 7. 7. Team's walking time — 4 hours. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team: Afanas'eva A.A. CMS Geydarov K.G. 2nd sports class Karelov P.S. 3rd sports class Kuchumov S.N. novice Mordovin A.A. 3rd sports class Nomokonov D.V. 3rd sports class Potapov R.A. badge Rasskazov D.V. 3rd sports class Rozhin A.Yu. 2nd sports class Uvarovskiy S.V. novice Shabanov A.V. novice Afanas'ev A.E. MS

Description of the ascent route to Mt. Mamlyuk 2410 m via the Western ridge, cat. 1B diff. cat.

Geographical location, sporting characteristics of the Moygota gorge

The Moygota gorge is located in the middle part of the main watershed of the Tunkin Goltsy in the Eastern Sayan. The Moygota peak closes the Moygota gorge and is located in the main watershed ridge. The heights of the peaks in the Moygota gorge do not exceed 3000 m. The alpine relief of the area with jagged rocky ridges makes it possible to classify a number of interesting sporting routes in this gorge. There are already classified routes to:

• Moygota peak via the southern ridge – 3A;
• Flibustier peak – 3B and 1B;
• Per'ya peak – 2B. The passage of these routes is often complicated by a significant snow cover, which falls early in autumn and mostly melts only by the end of May or June. Approaching with a load to the base camp – on the edge of the forest, from the Tunkinskaya valley, from the road leading from the village of Tagarhay – takes just under two walking days.

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Brief Geographical Description of the Area

The peak Moygota is located in the main ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountain range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching 200 km in a latitudinal direction. The highest point of the ridge reaches 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym gorge. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms with deep gorges and wide glacial cirques. For over 100 km - from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west - the ridge has many peaks of great interest to climbers.

• The forest boundary on the southern slopes is at 1800 m, and on the northern slopes at 1600–1700 m.
• The snow cover almost completely melts by the end of summer.
• Glaciation is found only in the western part of the ridge. Moygota peak has an elevation of about 2883 m above sea level. The nearest settlements - Arshan and Tagarhay - are 25–30 km away. Access is via a dirt road to the Moygota gorge, then a 4-hour ascent up the gorge to the base camp at the forest boundary. From the base camp at the forest boundary:
• 2 hours up the gorge to the first lake at the fork in the gorge.
• The ridge dividing the upper reaches of the gorge is the southern ridge to Mt. Moygota.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy, Moygoty Gorge. 3. Mt. Moygota, height 2832 m. Route via South Ridge. 4. Re-certified to category 3B difficulty. 5. Height difference: 650 m. Average steepness: 20°. Section lengths: 1st category — 200 m, 2nd category — 80 m, 3rd category — 600 m, 4th category — 80 m, 5th category — 6. Number of pitons hammered for belay: Rock — 12 pcs. 7. Number of travel hours — 8 hours 8. No overnight stays. 9. Group composition: BOGOMOLOV S.G. — CMS, FILIPPOVA T. — CMS

Ascent Passport

Area — Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy, Barun-Khandagai gorge Peak — Monakh 2640 GPS coordinates — 51°54′58.15″N, 102°0′51.79″E Route — from the north via the western ridge, proposed category 2B. Route character — rock.

Route characteristics:

elevation gain — 500 m, length — 940 m, section lengths:

• I difficulty grade — 680 m
• II difficulty grade — 170 m

Peak Monakh from the west, from the saddle between Peak Monakh and Charskie Zori Suvorkina L.D. East Sayan 6.1

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Region: East Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, Barun-Khadagai valley
3. Summit: 2850 m. Peak Monakh from the west, from the saddle between Peak Monakh and Charskie Zori
4. Proposed: 2B category of difficulty
5. Route type: combined
6. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 840 m.