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Geographic and Climbing Characteristics of the Area

The Zuun-Khandagai valley is located 15 km from the Arshan resort village. There is a good trail almost halfway through the valley. The peaks in this area have been explored by climbers for a long time, and the Classification table currently includes routes to:

• Mt. SOAN - 4B and 3B
• Mt. Dinosaur - 4A
• Khandagai Needles - 4B The first ascent to the left peak of Khandagai Needles is related to ridge routes. This route is distinguished by its logic and complexity, as it runs along the main watershed ridge of the Tunkin Mountains, characterized by sharp alpine forms (narrow jagged ridges, abundant snow, strong winds, etc.). Winter climbing conditions persist until mid-May. Protocol 4209 dated February 15, 1977.

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0-10

Ascent Passport

1. East Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Zun Khandagay gorge, section 6.1. 69
2. The Third Needle of Khandagay peak, 2650 m, via the South Ridge.
3. Proposed for category complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 230 m, length — 280 m, average steepness — 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired — 24.
7. Team's moving hours — 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Afanasiev A.E. CMS

Ascent Record

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Eastern Sayan, Tunku Goltsy, Zuun-Khandagai Valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — (3) Akademik Korolev Peak, 2900 m, via the Southwest Ridge from Udachny Pass
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 495 m, average slope — 50°
6. Pitons used for belaying: rock — 19, ice — 1, bolted — — No manufactured pitons were used.
7. Number of climbing hours:
   • from the base camp in Zuun-Khandagai Valley to Udachny Pass — 3 h

Uaachny Pass

Geographic location, sporting characteristics, and history of the Zuun-Khandagai valley exploration

The Zuun-Khandagai valley is located in the middle part of the Tunka Alps in the Eastern Sayan. The peak Igly Khandagaya is situated on the watershed ridge of the Tunka Alps and closes the Zuun-Khandagai valley. Although the height of the peaks in the area does not exceed 3000 m, its development is significantly hindered by complex climatic conditions and alpine landforms. In 1969, the valley was explored by an expedition of the USSR Climbing Federation led by V. Abalakov. In the same summer, a group of climbers from Irkutsk led by V. Belousov made the first ascent of the southern wall of the peak SOAN, and the route was classified as 4B category in summer conditions. A route along the southeastern ridge to the same peak was also classified as 2B category. It is worth noting that winter conditions in the Eastern Sayan often last until the end of May, when prolonged snowstorms and frosts unexpectedly deter climbers. By the end of summer, the snow cover almost completely disappears. The area has more than ten peaks of interest to climbers, and only one peak, SOAN, currently has classified routes. The traverse of Igly Khandagaya is the second attempt to classify the peaks in this interesting and promising area.

Description of the traverse

April 27. Sections R0–R1, R1–R2.

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Zun Khandagai valley, section 6.1.70
2. Peak Irkutsk, 2742 m, via the South Counterfort.
3. Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type — rocky.
5. Height difference 350 m, length 525 m, average slope 40°.
6. Pitons hammered: rocky and wired — 20.
7. Team's walking hours — 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

Brief Geographical Overview of the "Irkutsk" Peak Area

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The 2816 m "Irkutsk" peak is located in the eastern part of the Tunka Goltsy mountain range, Eastern Sayan. The range stretches from west to east for 150 km, approaches the southwestern tip of Lake Baikal, and serves as a watershed for the Irkut and Kitoi rivers, left tributaries of the Angara River. The vegetation is typically taiga, represented by:

• Cedar,
• Pine,
• Larch. The forest boundary is at an altitude of 1880–1900 m. The fauna is rich and diverse. The Tunka valley is known for its many mineral springs. The most famous of these is the Arshan spring, on which a resort of all-Union significance has been established. Administratively, the Tunka Goltsy range belongs to the Buryat ASSR.

2015