Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class — rock climbing
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Ascent area — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy, Moygoty Gorge.
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Mt. Moygota, height 2832 m. Route via South Ridge.
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Re-certified to category 3B difficulty.
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Height difference: 650 m. Average steepness: 20°. Section lengths: 1st category — 200 m, 2nd category — 80 m, 3rd category — 600 m, 4th category — 80 m, 5th category —
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Number of pitons hammered for belay: Rock — 12 pcs.
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Number of travel hours — 8 hours
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No overnight stays.
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Group composition: BOGOMOLOV S.G. — CMS, FILIPPOVA T. — CMS
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Team coach: MIKHAILOV A.A.
II. Departure to the route: November 4, 1978
Return from the route: November 4, 1978
Base part — Ekhim 440 km via
isotop
Route Description
From the base camp on the forest border in the direction of the South ridge of Mt. Moygota.
The lower lake is bypassed on the right. Access to the ridge is on the left via a steep talus. Control cairn on a large boulder. From the control cairn, two ropes via rock blocks to the first gendarme.
The gendarme is bypassed on the right. Traverse via small ledges with a height gain to a slab. Exit to the ridge via the slab.
- Climbing IV category difficulty.
- Piton belay
- Control cairn
Time: 1 hour 30 minutes.
The second gendarme is bypassed on the right, initially with a slight descent, traverse via ledges to the second internal corner. Exit to the gendarme's shoulder via the corner.
- Difficult climbing!
- Piton belay!
From the shoulder, a 15 m rappel to the ridge. Further along the ridge.
- Climbing III category difficulty.
The third gendarme is taken head-on. Before the IV gendarme, a descent to the left onto shelves to a saddle, then back to the ridge and the IV gendarme head-on.
- After the IV gendarme — control cairn
Time: 2 hours.
Further along moderately difficult rocks in the direction of the summit. The summit is visible to the left of the ridge.
Time: 2 hours.
Descent via the East ridge on a route of category 1B difficulty.
Time: 1 hour 30 minutes.
Team Conclusion
Reviewing previous ascents by teams, we note that only the first ascendants of this route managed to return to the camp in daylight. All other groups:
- did not complete the route,
- were forced to finish it in the dark,
- returned to the camp very late.
Based on this, as well as considering the technical difficulty of the route and comparing it to previously completed ascents of category III, we believe that the route's difficulty category is understated and should correspond to category 3B.