EASTERN SAYANS IRKUTSK peak (2742 m) via the south ridge, cat. 3B difficulty (year-round)

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION

The Irkutsk peak is situated in the main ridge of the Tunkinskiye Belki range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. It is located at the head of the Pravaya Zun-Khandagai River gorge.

TRANSPORTATION AND APPROACH TO THE BASE CAMP

From Irkutsk city, take a bus or drive to Arshan resort — 218 km. From Arshan resort, head west along the main ridge through Tagarkhay village by car or on foot — 12 km. Continue on foot along the trail on the right side (as you go) of the Zun-Khandagai River gorge until the fork of the left and right Zun-Khandagai rivers — 9 km. The base camp is located at the fork. The tree line is at this elevation, and there is an abundance of firewood. Time breakdown:

• Irkutsk–Arshan — 7 hours by bus

13

Ascent passport to v. Kazak, 2507 m, via the Southern ridge, cat. III.

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Bryanskogo (Vetryany district) valley, section 6.1.2. 2. Kazak peak (2507) via the Southern ridge. 3. Proposed category: III, first ascent. 4. The nature of the route is rocky. 5. Height difference 457 m, length 800 m, average slope 37°. 6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 17 pcs. 7. Team's walking hours — 5 hours. 8. No overnight stays on the route. 9. Group: Afanasyev A.E. MS Vorobyov P.Yu. 3rd sports category Geydarov K.G. 2nd sports category Marchukov K.F. 2nd sports category Rasskazov D.V. 3rd sports category Senatorov A.V. 3rd sports category Tashlykov V.A. 3rd sports category

"Sunny Plan"

one rope pitch

Report on the First Ascent

Peak Kupol (2954 m) Right Central Counterfort of the North Face Route 5A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent Route name: "Fast & Light" Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai Valley, 6.1 2013 Team Leader: Klepiov A.A. Participants: Shcherban A.N.

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai Valley, 6.1.
2. Peak Kupol (2954 m), via the Right Central Counterfort of the North Face.

Ascent Report

Peak Kupol (2954 m) via the North-Eastern plates of the Eastern shoulder. Route category 5A (proposed), first ascent. Route name: "Through friction to the stars". Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1. Team leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants: Ilyinsky V.A., Shcherban A.N. 2016

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.
2. Peak Kupol (2954 m), via NE plates of E shoulder.
3. Proposed - 5A - first ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.

Climbing Report on the First Ascent

Kupol Peak (2954 m)

Via the Central Counterfort of the North Face. Route category 5B (proposed), first ascent Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1 Team leader: Klepikov A.A. Team member: Afanasyeva A.A. Trainer: Afanasyev 2007

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1.
2. Kupol Peak (2954 m), Central counterfort of the North Face.
3. Proposed category 5B — first ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Route height difference: 656 m

Photo 2. Third rope.

The leader on the section R11–R12, 5 m from the belay station. Passing the crack — chimney, difficult climbing, smoothed rocks, steepness 65°. The photo is taken from the belay station at R9.

Photo 3. Fourth rope.

The leader at point R15. Passed:

• a vertical wall
• then 20 m internal corner. The photo is taken from the belay station at R12.

Photo 4. Fifth rope.

Ascent Passport

Appr. No. 13 dated April 13, 2007 6B cat. diff. In one hike 6.1.67 1. Region — Eastern Sayan Mountains, Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, Berun-Khandagai valley, 6.1. 2. Peak — Dome 2955 m, via plumb lines on the North face of the East shoulder. 3. Proposed 6B cat. diff., first ascent. Route type — rock. 4. Elevation difference: total route — 664 m, wall section — 474 m; length: total route — 1051 m, wall section — 511 m; section lengths: VI cat. diff. — 326 m, V cat. diff. — 80 m; average steepness of the wall route section — 86°. 5. Pitons left: total — 39, incl. drilled — 32; used: chocks — 86/51, rock pitons — 59/40, drilled pitons — 57/49, incl. removable — 25/17; celestial pitons — 97/97, incl. under Ø 6 mm drill — 90/90; total TTP used — 230.

Passport

1. Class of first ascents.
2. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1.
3. V. Kupol via the North face of the East shoulder, 2955 m.
4. Proposed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent. The nature of the route is rocky.
5. Height difference: total route – 554 m, wall part – 425 m; length: total route – 730 m, wall part – 461 m, overhanging part ("blade") – 141 m; length of sections: 6th category of difficulty – 207 m, 5th category of difficulty – 145 m; average steepness of the wall part of the route — 79°.
6. "Hooks" left: total – 13, including pitons – 8; used: chocks – 82/67, rock pitons – 96/56, ice screws – 4, pitons – 10/5, including removable – 2/1; total artificial aids used – 128.
7. Team's climbing hours – 49, days – 6 (1 – processing, 5 – route).
8. Overnights – 4 in hammocks.
9. Team leader: Afanasyev A.E. (MS); participant: Khandazhapov B.A. (CMS).