Ascent Log

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Eastern Sayan–Tunkin Goltsy, Kyngarga valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Trekhglavaya, 2511, Central peak via the southeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 450 m. Average steepness — 55° Length of section: 5–6 pitches — 24 m.
6. Pitons hammered for belaying and creating artificial anchors: Rock — 49, ice — none, bolted — none.

56a

Route Description

on the East face of the Central Spire of TRÈKHGLAVAIA Peak (2511 m). Group composition: Leader B. M. Belousov, V. M. Kharlamov, N. K. Laptev, Z. M. Boyarkina. Ascent dates: May 5-7, 1972. The group departed from the base camp, located at the forest boundary (≈1700 m), at 6:00 AM towards the lower part of the Central Spire's wall. The approach to the route's starting point takes 40-50 minutes. The route begins approximately 60 meters to the left and above the wall's lowest point, which transitions into scree without flattening. See photos 1, 3. The R0-R1 section follows a small counterfort protruding from the wall, with heavily fragmented rocks. See photo 3. Insurance is set up alternately through ledges. Be cautious of numerous loose rocks. The slope's steepness is 50°. Monolithic rocks follow oblique shelves, transitioning into an ascent to the upper part of this protruding counterfort. At the top of this section, the group changed from crampons to "vibram" boots.

Brief Geographical Overview

of the TRÈKHGLAVAIA Peak area, travel to the area, and approach to the base camp. The TRÈKHGLAVAIA Peak area is located in the eastern part of the Tunkinskie Belki ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. The ridge stretches clearly from west to east for 150 km and approaches the southwestern tip of Lake Baikal. Streams and rivers flowing from the ridge flow into:

Ascent Record

Route: South peak of Trekhglaaya peak, 2511 m a.s.l., via South-Eastern buttress Proposed difficulty category: 3B. Route characteristics: height difference 636 m, average slope 50°. Pitons used: rock 19 pcs., ice 0, bolted 0. Duration: 9 hours. Number of bivouacs: 0. Leader: Krasnukhin L.I., 1st sports category. Team members: Zhila A.Yu., 1st sports category, Bolshedvorsky V.V., 1st sports category, Lebedev V.G., 1st sports category, Ponomarchuk V.S., 1st sports category, Mishchurinsky B.A., 1st sports category. Team coach: Popov V.N. Ascent date: March 7, 1978. Irkutsk

General view of Trekhglaaya peak

Route completed by the group

Previously climbed routes:

• 4B difficulty category

Traversing the North and Central Towers

Trekhglavaya Peak with ascent via the NE ridge of the North Tower via route category 2B

1. Geographic information

The Trekhglavaya massif is located in the Tunka Goltsy range of the Eastern Sayan Mountains, in a long lateral spur that serves as the watershed between the Bugotoy and Kyngarga rivers. The Tunka Goltsy range is the highest in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching latitudinally for hundreds of kilometers. Its highest point, 3266 meters above sea level, is located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym river. The range has sharp alpine forms overall. Within 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, there are many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The gorges are deep, covered with dense taiga. The tree line on southern slopes is at 1880 m, and on northern slopes at 1600–1700 m. Snow cover largely melts by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The Trekhglavaya massif consists of three towers: the South, Central, and North Towers. The highest is the Central Tower, at 2511 meters above sea level. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk. It takes 4 hours to reach the Base Camp at the confluence of the Right and Left Kyngarga rivers from the resort (upstream along the gorge).

2. Route description

Traverse of the Northern and Central Towers

V. Trekhglavaya with ascent along the NE ridge of the Northern Tower via route 2B category of difficulty

1. Geographical information

The V. Trekhglavaya massif is located in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, in a long lateral spur that serves as a watershed between the Bugotoy and Kyngarga rivers. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching latitudinally for hundreds of km. The highest point is 3266 m above sea level, located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym river. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms. Within 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, there are many peaks of great interest to climbers. The gorges are deep, covered with impenetrable taiga. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is at 1880 m, on the northern slopes at 1600–1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The V. Trekhglavaya massif consists of three towers - South, Central, and North. The highest is the Central Tower, with a height of 2511 m above sea level. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk. From the resort to the Base camp at the confluence of the Right and Left Kyngarga rivers - 4 hours walk (uphill to the gorge).

2. Route description

As­cent pass­port to the peak Trekhgla­vaya (C — N) 2557 m, via East­ern couloir, traverse, cat. 2A. East­ern Sayan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Kyngarga valley, sec­tion 6.1. 2. Peak Trekhgla­vaya (C — N), 2557 m, via East­ern couloir, traverse. 3. Pro­posed cat. 2A, first as­cent. 4. Route char­ac­ter — com­bined. 5. Height dif­fer­ence 300 m, length 1400 m, av­er­age steep­ness 25°. 6. Pitons: rock and wired 5 pcs. 7. Team's mov­ing hours — 7 h. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team: Afa­nasiev S.A. III grade, Afa­nasiev A.E. MS. 10. Coach — Afa­nasiev A.E. MS. 11. As­cent to the peak and re­turn on May 1, 2001. De­scrip­tion of the as­cent route to the peak Trekhgla­vaya (C-N) 2557 m via East­ern couloir, traverse, cat. 2A. This route is the re­verse traverse of the clas­si­fied route 2B cat. of the S — C Trekhgla­vaya traverse, start­ing with the as­cent via S ridge. This route starts from the de­scend­ing couloir of east­ern ex­po­sure be­tween the peaks South­ern and Cen­tral Trekhgla­vaya. Here is the de­scent from all routes to the South­ern and Cen­tral peaks of Trekhgla­vaya, and some­times peo­ple de­scend af­ter as­cend­ing to the North­ern Trekhgla­vaya. Along the couloir — 500 m, 35° — snow cov­ered scree. Some­times it is ava­lanch­e-haz­ard­ous. The up­per part of the couloir is lo­cated in the nar­row rocky jaws of the South­ern and Cen­tral tow­ers and snow here some years per­sists till the end of sum­mer. Sec­tion R0–R1 60 m. 45° I+ Up­per part of the couloir. On the bridge snow cor­niche up to 2 m. Ropes. Sec­tion R1–R2 350 m. 60° II− As­cent to the Cen­tral tow­er of Trekhgla­vaya can be done by two vari­ants:

• first one via South­ern ridge, three rope lengths, 4 rock pitons;
• sec­ond — left of the ridge via de­scend­ing path, one-two rope lengths. This sec­tion is the key one for the route 1B cat.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tunkinskaya via the route along the North ridge, approximately category 1B, by the team of the "Mountains of Baikal" club within the framework of the "Impossible is not forever" project, for the period from March 25, 2019 to March 25, 2019. Irkutsk 2019

I. Ascent Report

№ p/p	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Panova Alena Mikhailovna (Candidate for Master of Sports)
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Tsalman Igor Viktorovich, 3rd sports rank; Tsalman Polina Viktorovna, 3rd sports rank; Medvedeva Anna Gennadievna, badge; Mashtakova Natalia Gennadievna, badge; Desyatova Daria Nikolaevna, badge; Kiselnov Pavel Alexandrovich; Petko Andrey Pavlovich

Uzel Rebyonka 2798 m, via North-East Ridge, Category III

6.1.2. Irkutsk 2008. Scheme of the route to Uzel Rebyonka 2798 m, via North-East Ridge, Category III.

Uzel Rebyonka	Length m	Steepness °	Difficulty	Number of pitons
	20	30	IIIБ
	40	60	IIIБ
	30	40	I-
	15	55	IIIБ
	10		V-

Irkutsk Regional Alpine Federation

Description

Ascent to v. "Flibustier" via the 3rd ridge (Tunkin Goltsy) Eastern Sayan. 2860 m. Irkutsk, 1971.

Geographical Information, Sports Characteristics, and History of the Exploration of the Moygato Valley

The Moygato valley is located in the middle part of the Tunkin Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan. Tunkin Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan. The highest point is 3266 m in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym valley. The ridge has alpine forms of relief. There are many peaks of interest to climbers. The valleys are deep, covered with impenetrable taiga. The forest boundary lies at an altitude of 1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peak "Flibustier" is located in a lateral spur. The height of the peak is 2860 m.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "FLIBUSTIER" VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, 2860

Group Composition

KUZNETSOV YU.A. — 2nd sports category, 4A, 4A, 4B, 4B, 5A, 5A — team leader MUKHORTOV M.V. — 2nd sports category, 9 ascents of 4th category difficulty, 5A — participant KUPRINA N.S. — 2nd sports category, 4A, 4A, 4B, 5A MIKHAILOV A.A. — 2nd sports category, 4A Irkutsk, 1971 Brief Geographical Characteristics The summit "Flibustier" is located in the southern lateral spur of the Tunka ridge. Its eastern slope drops into the valley of the Moygota river, and the western slope — into the valley of the Biron river. The described route is laid from the Moygota river gorge. The entrance to the gorge is located 25–30 km from the Arshan resort. A dirt road allows driving to the gorge by truck.