DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "FLIBUSTIER" VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, 2860

Group Composition

KUZNETSOV YU.A. — 2nd sports category, 4A, 4A, 4B, 4B, 5A, 5A — team leader MUKHORTOV M.V. — 2nd sports category, 9 ascents of 4th category difficulty, 5A — participant KUPRINA N.S. — 2nd sports category, 4A, 4A, 4B, 5A MIKHAILOV A.A. — 2nd sports category, 4A

Irkutsk, 1971

Brief Geographical Characteristics

The summit "Flibustier" is located in the southern lateral spur of the Tunka ridge. Its eastern slope drops into the valley of the Moygota river, and the western slope — into the valley of the Biron river. The described route is laid from the Moygota river gorge. The entrance to the gorge is located 25–30 km from the Arshan resort. A dirt road allows driving to the gorge by truck.

The approach through the gorge to the base camp (1750 m, forest boundary) takes 8–10 hours.

Organized mountaineering development of the peaks in the Moygota river gorge began with the November mountaineering event in 1970 by teams from the "Trud" Sports Society from Irkutsk and Bratsk.

Route Description

Approach. From the camp at the forest boundary:

Overcome the first steep ascent.
After it, turn towards a steep slope with rock outcrops, covered in large and medium scree, 500–600 m later.
Ascend the slope to a hanging valley (2250 m).
Cross the valley towards a rectangular window visible in the southeast ridge of "Flibustier" (see photo 11 and the area map).
Ascend to the window (2430 m).

Route. See the table and its supplements.

Supplements to the Route Characteristics Table

Section 4

After R3, movement along the ridge is impossible due to sheer walls. Artificial handholds and drilled pitons (photos 10 and 3). The section is bypassed via a steep, scree-covered ledge to a wide (12–15 m) couloir, which narrows after 60–80 m and turns into walls.

Notes: The group had an altimeter and reference height marks. Heights are indicated with an accuracy of ± 15–20 m.

Section 5

Movement through the couloir is impossible due to extreme rockfall danger and difficulty exiting the upper part of the couloir; thus, R5 is overcome via the outer corner of the couloir's right edge (photo 5).

Sections 7–10: Ascending to the ridge before R11 is impractical due to numerous overhanging sections on the ridge.

Section 11 (photo 8)

The photo shows a participant; the rope goes right behind the "balduishiny" in the foreground, bypassed on the right.

Section 12 (photo 9)

Traverse along a steep slab with a crack for toeholds.

Explanations for photo 10:

Part of the route is obscured by a nearby ridge (outlined) in the photo, so R5 and R6 are not visible.
The end of a steep couloir turning into walls is visible on the left.
Additionally, the photo does not show the summit part of R12–R15.

Conclusion

The route passes along the southeast ridge and southern slopes, is well heated by the sun, and due to this and the steepness of many sections, is not heavily snow-covered. The rocks are monolithic, predominantly slab-like.

The route was completed by the group in clear, sunny weather; the group believes that under these conditions, the route is category 3B difficulty. In case of snow cover and bad weather, the difficulty of passage will significantly increase.

Table of Main Route Characteristics

Ascent Route: southeast ridge of summit "Flibustier", category 3B difficulty
Route Height Difference — 350 m
Time on Route — 7 hours
Approach — 2.5 hours
Descent — 2 hours
Average Route Steepness — 50°
Total: 11.5 hours

№	Average Steepness of Section	Length of Section	Character of Relief	Technical Difficulty	Method of Overcoming and Belaying	Number of Pitons
1	50°	30 m	Slabs	3	Free climbing, belaying via ledges
2	55°	60 m	Narrow, broken couloir		—
3	—	100 m	Ridge	2	Simultaneous movement
4	—	40 m	Steep ledge		Traverse under a vertical wall
5	60°	50 m	Outer corner	3	Alternating movement, belaying via ledges
6	35°	20 m	Scree-covered ledge		Simultaneous movement
7	60°	30 m	Slabs	3	Alternating movement, belaying via ledges
8	40°	30 m	—	2	—
9	20°	90 m	—	4	Belaying via ledges, pitons	4
10	60°	90 m	—	3	Belaying via ledges
11	50°	30 m	Ridge		—
12	80°	20 m	Slab with a crack	4	Traverse, pitons, ledges	2
13	60°	30 m	Slabs	3	Alternating movement, belaying via ledges
14	40°	60 m	Ridge	2	Simultaneous movement
15	35°	100 m	Scree, broken rocks	1	—

View of the southeast ridge from the saddle, at the start of the route. The initial part of the ridge is in the foreground. The summit is in the background, marked with a flag.