Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: rock 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route "Kyzylbash" - 4200 m NE ridge 4. Expected difficulty category 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1050 m average steepness 62° length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. 320 m 6. Pitons hammered:

I. Rock class. 2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, "Sairam" gorge. 3. "4200" peak, via the North-Eastern wall. 4. Proposed - 6B cat. of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference - 870 m, length - 1080 m. The length of sections with 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 750 m, of which 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 680 m. The average steepness of the main sections - 80°, of which 6B cat. of difficulty - 312 m (3230–3365), (3560–3610), (3650–3730). 6. Pitons driven:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: «Kyzylbash» — 4200 m via the center of the NE face
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 820 m
   • Average steepness: 84°
   • Length of sections: R1 45 m, R2 450 m, R3 315 m
6. Pitons hammered in:

Passport

1. Rock class
2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak 4200 (Kyzylbash), via the left part of the NE wall
4. Proposed — 6B category, first ascent
5. Height difference: 695 m, length — 755 m, length of sections 5–6 category — 465 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 82° (3540–3990)
6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :-------- | :----------- | :---------- | :-------- | | 119/22 | 37/13 | 87/16 | 0 |

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Tian Shan, Ugam range, section number according to the 2001 classification table: 7.11.
2. Name of the peak: Kyzylbash (4200 m), route name: via the left part of the NE wall.
3. Difficulty category: 6A.
4. Route characteristics: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 695 m, route length: 755 m, section lengths: 5th difficulty category — 258 m, 6th difficulty category — 207 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 89°, entire route — 82°, 72°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 7; including bolted pitons — 2. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolted | Chocks | Ice | | :---------: | :---------: | :-----------: | :------: |

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sayram-Su gorge, 7.11
2. Peak name: Kyzylbash, route: via the left part of the NE wall
3. Route category 6A difficulty level according to KMGV 1999 >3×205
4. Route type: rock
5. Route elevation gain: 755 m Route length: 835 m Section lengths: R1 — 228 m, R2 — 217 m Average steepness: — main part of the route — 82°,

Ascent Passport

7.11 Western Tien Shan, Sayram-Su gorge (base camp 1760)

Medvezhiy 3015 m

First Ascent X)

Route of first ascent: from the east to the south ridge Proposed: 1B cat. difficulty, rock Altitude difference according to altimeter: 725 m Estimated length: 1500 m Steepness: up to 40° on difficult sections "No hooks left"

The ascent route to the peaks "Sypuchaya" and "Obmanchivaya".

Description

Ascent to the peak "Obmanchivaya" in the Ugam range

Height 3900 m (above sea level). First ascent. The peak "Obmanchivaya" is located in the lateral ridge of the Ugam range, which stretches from southeast to northwest. To the northwest of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies the peak "Sypuchaya", and to the east, on the main ridge, lies the Unnamed peak. Three ridges branch out from the peak "Obmanchivaya": one stretches to the south, the second to the west, and the third to the east. Between the southern and eastern ridges lies a rock wall with a steepness of about 90° and a length of up to 300–400 m. Ascent routes to the peak "Obmanchivaya" are possible via the aforementioned ridges and wall. There is no glaciation on the peak "Obmanchivaya". From the intermediate camp located on the moraine by the lake, we depart at 5:00, moving eastward along the moraines, then turning north. The path lies between the terminal slopes of the ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the southern ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya", advancing on dense snow, with visible traces of avalanches that descended from the slopes of the peak "Sypuchaya". After 2.5 hours, we approach the western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya". To our left (in the direction of travel) lies the western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya", its southern side dropping off in walls, with snow not holding on them, thus the gorge is filled with snow. Between the Western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the Western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies a narrow gorge, through which avalanches pass, as the ridges almost connect with a rock col.

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — rock
2. West Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge
3. V. Obmanschivaya, NW wall
4. 3A difficulty category (approximate).
5. Height difference 700 m
6. Rock pitons hammered — 12/0, ice — 0/0, bolted — 0/0. Used protection — 4
7. Climbing hours 12
8. No overnight stays

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — "Ob'edinennykh natsiy", 3900 m, NW ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 200 m average steepness — 65° length of sections: 3 – 45 m, 4 – 85 m, 5 – 130 m
6. Pitons driven: