Uzel Rebyonka 2798 m, via North-East Ridge, Category III

6.1.2.

Irkutsk 2008. Scheme of the route to Uzel Rebyonka 2798 m, via North-East Ridge, Category III.

Length m	Steepness °	Difficulty	Number of pitons
20	30	IIIБ
40	60	IIIБ
30	40	I-
15	55	IIIБ
10		V-
35	10	IVБ	2	1
70	70	IVБ	3	2
70	60	IIIБ	1	1
20	60	IIIБ
180	55	I+
20	45	IIIБ	1	1

Passport of the ascent to Uzel Rebyonka 2798 m via North-East Ridge, Category III. 1. East Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, section 6.1.2. 2. Uzel Rebyonka (2798) via North-East Ridge. 3. Proposed Category III, first ascent. 4. Route type - rock. 5. Height difference 360 m, length 570 m, average steepness 50°. 6. Pitons used: rock and chock stones 12 pieces. 7. Team's walking hours - 7 hours. 8. No overnight stays on the route. 9. Group:

Afanasiev A.E. MS, Volodov A.N. 3rd sports category, Vinogradov N.N. 3rd sports category

10. Coach Afanasiev A.E. MS

Ascent to the summit and return on August 17, 2008.

Description of the ascent route to Uzel Rebyonka 2798 m via North-East Ridge, Category III. Geographical coordinates: N 51°55'40" E 102°08'56".

Approach via Vityaz cirque (right orographically to Barun-Khandagai valley) to the end. Then along a snow-covered large talus slope of eastern exposure to the lower point of the counterfort descending from the summit to the northeast. Bypass the lower "claw" from the left to a convenient ledge at the start of the route. Section 0-1, 80 m, 55°, II-. A winding internal angle under a monolithic wall. Bypass the monolith from the left. Section 1-2, 180 m, 55°, I+. Upwards to the left along large snow-covered blocks. Section 2-3, 20 m, 60°, III+. A rocky monolithic outcrop, with a sharp ridge to the right, ascended via shattered rocks upwards. Control cairn. Section 3-4, 30 m, 60°, III+. To the right via shattered rocks, exit onto the ridge. Section 4-5, 25 m, III-. To the right of the ridge along narrow snow-covered ledges under overhangs. Section 5-6, 75 m, 70°, IV+. To the right of the ridge along the wall via vertical cracks. Northern side, heavily snow-covered even on steep rocks. Rockfall hazard! Key section. In the upper part, exit onto the ridge. Section 6-7, 35 m, 10°, IV-. Monolithic narrow ridge. Section 7-8, 10 m, IV-. Vertical rappel to the right of the ridge. Section 8-9, 15 m, II+. To the right of the ridge along a 55° slope. Exit onto a ridge saddle under a monolithic vertical reddish wall. Section 9-10, 30 m, 40°, I-. From the saddle to the left along a snowy slope. Section 10-11, 40 m, 60°, III-. Along the wall to the left of the summit, exit onto the summit ridge. Section 11-12, 7 m, 60°, III+. To the right along the ridge, exit onto the summit tower. On the summit ledge, two boulders: one slightly below human height, the second large, 2.5 m high, a sharp boulder. Cairn constructed.

Descent to the south, initially along a flat field and then along the southern ridge to a saddle with Dobraja peak, and to the left down a steep snowy couloir with piton protection.

The flat summit area is at the same height as the summit tower, possibly even slightly higher. However, visually, the group did not find a specific spot for the cairn on the field (weather was good), so they decided that constructing a cairn on the tower and finding it would be easier.