9. Descriptions of Ascent Routes to Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m)

Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m) – Mt. Ulun (2221 m), Category 1B Difficulty

From the base camp, move along the left tributary of the Ulun River, then towards the Edelweiss Pass. After 20–30 minutes of walking, start ascending up and to the right along the Eastern Counterfort of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m). After 1 hour and 10 minutes of ascent along a relatively simple snow-covered ridge with step-kicking, reach the Northeast Ridge of the summit, then continue along it for 20 minutes to the summit. The ridge is not steep and is snow-covered, but mutual belay is necessary due to the presence of snow cornices. Crampons are mandatory! The summit of Khabarovskikh Alpinistok is a pyramid with steep walls dropping to the Southwest and Southeast. The further path is clearly visible from the summit. The traverse follows the ridge directed from North to South. Characteristics of the ridge:

• rocky, fairly narrow;
• drops steeply on both sides with walls up to 60 m deep;
• partially snow-covered, which somewhat simplifies movement;
• features low "gendarme" formations that can only be overcome head-on.

1. Left edge of the E ridge, 2B
2. Right edge of the E ridge, 4A

Left edge of the East ridge, 2B cat. difficulty

From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun river, move downstream. Round the entire North-Eastern ridge of peak Khabarovskikh Alpinistok and reach the far end of the Coya cirque to the start of the route. The approach takes 40 minutes on skis. At the beginning of the route be attentive — there are dangerous couloirs on the left and right. Climb 150 m to the beginning of the edge. The beginning of the ascent passes along gently sloping, heavily snow-covered rocks about 100 m to the base of the first large "gendarme". It is passed on the right along rather technically complex internal corners and slabs (key section 95 m). Then 100 m at the same time to the base of the second large "gendarme". Pass it:

• on the right along the slabs,
• or straight up along the crevice 40 m (second key section).

1. via the left edge of the E. ridge, 2B
2. via the right edge of the E. ridge, 4A

Via the right edge of the Eastern ridge, 4A category of difficulty

From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace on the left bank of the Ulun river, proceed to the gorge of Mt. Tsoy to the start of the route. This takes 1–1.5 hours. Then:

• Ascend 200 m along the snowy slope;
• further, move along the slabs and internal corner to reach a snow shelf 30 m;
• at the upper part of the corner, there is a plug and an awkward transition;
• then move 160 m along moderately difficult rocks to the base of a large "gendarme" — it is clearly visible from below;

Mt. Tsoya (2130 m) – Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m), category 2A

From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun River, move 40 minutes downstream. Having rounded the entire Northeast ridge of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok, reach the foot of Mt. 1942. The ascent to Mt. Tsoya is done along the Northeast ridge via Mt. 1942. The right slope of the ridge is covered with very dense firn, movement is only possible in crampons. The time taken to move along the ridge to Mt. Tsoya is 2–2.5 hours. Insurance is simultaneous. Mt. Tsoya is a snow-covered dome. Further movement from the summit along the Southeast ridge:

• Insurance is simultaneous.
• Movement is in crampons.
• After 20–25 minutes, reach a large "gendarme" which is overcome "head-on".
• The use of pitons or camming devices is possible.
• The further ridge is heavily dissected, several small 20–30-meter "gendarmes" are encountered, passable "head-on" with alternating insurance.
• 1 hour 20–30 minutes after the large "gendarme", reach the summit tower.

Characteristics of the Region

Administratively, the region is part of the Askizsky District of the Krasnoyarsk Krai and borders on the Kemerovo Oblast to the east. The mountain-taiga steel railway line Novokuznetsk—Abakan connects the remote, previously hard-to-reach areas of Khakassia and Kuznetsk Alatau. Departing from Novokuznetsk station at 17:25, the train arrives at Luzba station at 23:30 local time. The region's climate is sharply continental and harsh. Abundant precipitation contributes to the lush development of vegetation in the summer. During the winter months, a thick snow cover accumulates; in river valleys, it reaches a thickness of 2–3 meters, hiding buildings under it. In settlements:

• Footpaths are laid at the level of eaves;
• Train compositions run along tracks in deep snow trenches. The administrative boundary of the regions almost coincides with the climatic boundary: the eastern slopes of Kuznetsk Alatau, located in Khakassia, differ significantly from the western slopes in terms of precipitation, and in winter, the snow cover is much less beyond the Tiger-Tyshsky and Surgassky ridges. This area has significantly more sunny days than the valleys of the Kozyr, Bel-Su, Amzas rivers, etc. Relief. Kuznetsk Alatau, bordering the Kuznetsk depression to the east, is an orographically complex massif where absolute heights reach 2000–2100 m above sea level. The region is generally characterized by mid-mountain relief, transitioning into small-hilly, hilly-ridge relief to the east (Photo 1).

To No. 583 of 19.04.1988 ASCENT RECORD

1. Type of ascent: rock climbing.
2. Area of ascent: Kuznetsky Alatau, Tigertysh Ridge.
3. Peak "Bolshoi Zub" 2048 m above sea level. The route is a combination via the northern edge of the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A category.
5. Height difference — about 600 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons 3 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours: ascent 6 hours, descent 3 hours.
8. No overnight stays are planned; the route is completed in 1 day.

ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class: rock.
2. Ascent area: Kuznetsky Alatau, Tiger-Tysh ridge.
3. Bolshoy Zub peak, 2048 m above sea level, combined route on the Western counterfort of the southern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference about 600 m, average slope of ascent — 45 degrees.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 5 pcs.
7. Number of travel hours — 8 hours.
8. Overnight stays are not provided — the route is completed in one day.
9. Chan-Syan Anatoly Vladimirovich — instructor, CMS.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: rock.
2. Ascent area: Kuznetsky Alatau, Tiger-Tysh ridge.
3. Peak "Bolshoy Zub" (Big Tooth) 2048 m above sea level.
4. Route is combined, via the western counterfort.
5. Estimated difficulty category: 2B.
6. Height difference is about 600 m.
7. Pitons hammered: rock 4 pcs., chock stones 6 pcs.
8. Number of travel hours: ascent 4 hours, descent 3 hours.
9. No overnight stay is planned; the route is completed in 1 day.

Passport

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Climbing area — Kuznetsky Alatau, Tegirtysh ridge.
3. Peak — Bolshoy Zub (2045) via the North face.
4. Anticipated category complexity — 3B, for winter conditions, the route is combined.
5. Route length — 440 m Length of sections with 5th category complexity — 60 m. Height difference — 380 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 59°. Average steepness of the entire route — 53°.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock — 23
   • chocks — 2

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Kuznetsky Alatau, Tiger Tysh ridge.
3. Summit — Bolshoy Zub (2045 m) via the center of the North face.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B, for winter conditions, the route is combined.
5. Length — 540 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 160 m. Height difference — 380 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 63°. Average steepness of the entire route — 51°.
6. Number of pitons driven: | rock | wired | ice | | :--: | :-----: | :-: |