8. Peak "25 lat PRL" - 5207 m - via "Biały Koń" mandala 5A category July 24, 1969. Kazimierz Głazek, Tadeusz Pióro, Krzysztof Cieluszeck, Bogdan Jankowski From "Polskie Namioty" (for the route description to "Polskie Namioty" see the section) - ascent via "Biały Koń" mandala (through snowy-icy fields on the left ridge - 2 ropes on thin snow and 1 rope on ice) - exit to the rocky ridge. Climb 40 m to the top of the mandala on shattered rocks with flow ice. Then a sporting descent to the saddle behind the mandala. From here:

• two ropes on a shattered rocky ridge with flow ice (steepness up to 70°),
• a small ascent with the use of étriers,
• then 50 m to the next ascent on a similar ridge,
• traverse right and ascent on an almost sheer icy wall (live rocks) about 20 m upwards,
• then 30 m of icy slabs with steepness up to 45° under a big ridge ascent. On the left, the ridge drops with vertical rocky walls to the Akterek Glacier, on the right of the ridge - icy slabs with steepness up to 50°.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO THE "GLAVNAYA IGLA" SUMMIT VIA THE SOUTHEAST SLOPE. 1969 Group composition: GLADILIN L.S. (leader), RUDNEV V.S., ABLESIMOV V.E., GITERMAN B.P. The Iglá summit is located in the Pamir-Alay mountains, at the junction of the:

• Alay range,
• Turkestan range,
• Zeravshan range (see diagram 1). The Iglá summit (see diagram 2, photo 1) is a massif consisting of three peaks, conditionally named:

Description of the Ascent Route to Peak 4350 "Malaia Igla" via the Southeast Ridge

/First ascent/

Group Composition:

1. Rudnev V.S. — leader
2. Malykhin Yu.M. — coach
3. Egorov L.A.
4. Zhelonkin E.F.
5. Pavlovsky E.S.
6. Sofronov I.D.

The Matcha mountain node is the junction of three huge ridges: Altai, Turkestan, and Zeravshan. All of them are part of the Pamir-Alay system. In the southwest direction from Matcha Pass is located Peak Igla. This summit closes the main flow of the Zeravshan Glacier and is like the center of the entire node. Peak Igla is a rocky ridge. It is not a separate pointed peak, as one might assume judging by the name, but several pointed peaks united in a single massif.

• North Peak (4430 m) — named after Peak Lyubov Yakovlevna Pakharkova — Honored Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering.
• Middle Peak (4510 m) — Central Igla.
• Southwest Peak (4530 m) — Main Igla. Traversing the Igla massif from Matcha Pass is rated 5A category of difficulty (approximately by Yu. MALYKHIN — team leader, A. DAVYDOV, L. EGOROV, N. ORLOV). August 5, 1969. From the assault camp located on Matcha Pass (3870 m):
• Ascend via the glacier, bypassing the spur from the left side (when looking up) to the bergschrund.
• From the bergschrund — up the snowy slope to the snowy ridge and along it to the rocky wall.

Steep Camera

Peak 4600 m via the North Ridge from

Shurovsky Glacier, 3A category of difficulty

August 9, 1969

• O. A. Shalya
• V. A. Martov
• G. L. Lorozhev
• N. Ivanov From the assault camp on Shurovsky Glacier, move towards the snow-ice couloir descending from the saddle between the Siberian Peak summits. To the base of the couloir — 1 hour. The steepness of the couloir in its upper part is up to 40°. Further:

The Kok-Bel spur, stretching in the meridional direction, separates the Kshemish and Purovskogo glaciers. Ascents to the peaks located in the spur are made:

• from the east - from the Kshemish glacier,
• from the west - from the Purrovskogo glacier,
• as well as from the passes connecting these glaciers. The transition from the base camp under the Kshemish glaciers to the assault camp in the upper reaches of the Purovsko glacier takes about 7 hours. At the same time, it is necessary to cross the snowy pass of Puroveko roughly 2B cat. The path through the Kiroksan pass takes significantly more time.

Critical Caucasus

II. Peak (4600 m) from the Purovskogo pass 3B cat.:

• April 22, 1969 — I. G. Lobkin, A. K. Kuzminikh April 28, 1969 — V. E. Eskarov, V. O. Panov From the assault camp on the Purovskogo glacier, the ascent is to the left of the Purovskogo pass to a snowy saddle, separated from the pass by a large mandarin. From the saddle, the path goes along:

Rocks of medium difficulty, in some places it is necessary to use iron belay. The first pronounced gendarme is bypassed on the left along inclined shelves, then movement continues along the ridge. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right along a snowy-icy couloir with rocky exits, then movement continues along the right side of the ridge. The col - before the third gendarme is traversed (stonefall hazard, iron belay). From the col, descend down to the left side of the ridge: one rope on difficult rocks into a rocky-icy couloir. Cross the couloir, exit onto a snow patch to the left of the third gendarme. From the snow patch, down difficult rocks (chimney) - one rope down and along a snowy-icy slab to the foot of the third gendarme. Up the snowy-icy slab and the col between the third gendarme and the summit (stonefall hazard). From the col, exit into a wide couloir located to the right of the summit. Up the couloir to the pre-summit ridge - rocks of medium difficulty.

3. Kshemish-Bashi (5230 m) — Ivanov Pass 45 km

July 22-25, 1969. L.A. Bolyaev, D.I. Morodorov, Z.O. Panomov, S.A. Ilyalg, L.N. Vyacheslavov, A.S. Mordekov The route starts from Ivanov Pass, connecting Kshemish glacier with Ak-Terek river valley. The ascent to the pass from the assault camp takes 1-1.5 hours and corresponds to approximately 25 km; snow up to 35°, ice in places. From Ivanov Pass, move along the boundary of rocks and snow, into the left part of the glacier, descending from the Eastern ridge of Kshemish-Bashi. After 1.5-2 hours of ascent, one should move to the right along a 6-meter steep ice slope crossing the entire width of the icefall. In its right part, there is an exit to the cirque of the upper terrace. Movement:

• with insurance through ice axe,
• crampons. Having overcome a large crevasse, located parallel to the slope, we move to the right under the rusty rocks of a large guandarma, located in the north-eastern counterfort. From the pass - 4-5 hours. In the upper part of the guandarma, there is a control point. Important:
• Overcoming the icefall only in the first half of the day!

From the overnight stay 3–4 ropes along the snowy slope of the gully, separated from the main slope by a section of rocky ridge. One rope on a 35° snowy slope along the gully, then exit to rocks (belay via ice axe). On the ridge, movement along the ledge on the left with piton belay at the beginning of the path! (after one rope of difficult rocks — exit back to snow). 40 m along the snowy ridge — exit to difficult rocks: chimneys 40–50° (in the upper part of the chimney — yellow rocks). The chimney is traversed with thorough piton belay. After the chimney, one rope of easy rocks with a 20-meter slab, then broken, snow-covered rocks and a gully with flowstone ice and loose stones. Belay is difficult to organize. Above the gully:

• 2–3 ropes of the path upwards along the snowy (in the upper part — icy) ridge;
• exit to the junction of the northeastern counterfort and the eastern edge. Exit to the eastern edge:
• 20 m of steps with chopping;
• belay via ice and rocky outcrops;
• from the overnight stay — 4–6 hours. Through the breaches and destructions of the eastern edge (cornice), one rope to the entrance to the gully formed by the rocks of the southeastern counterfort and the eastern edge.

A large snowy ascent. Further, I, 5–2 ropes along a 60–70° snowy slope with an exit left onto rocks. There is a bivouac site here. You can set up I–II tents, after roughly processing the thawing ice that creeps onto the rocks. From the bivouac on the Northeast buttress — 9–12 hours. Along the 30–35° snowy ridge — two ropes until exiting onto heavily destroyed simple rocks, leading through 30–40 m onto the ridge, which is a continuation of the Southeast buttress of the summit. Further movement along the ridge involves overcoming a small "ryzhyi mandar" head-on or bypassing it on the left with an exit in 40 m under a 30-meter wall. The wall is overcome via an internal corner with frozen rocks (rock pitons). The exit onto the wall on the right is less convenient due to cornices on the rocks. After overcoming the wall, a sharp rocky ridge exits under a large rectangular "mandari" rock. The "mandari" is bypassed on the right (I rope) with piton protection. Further movement (4.45 ropes) along the ridge with good monolithic rocks and cornices on the right until the pre-summit. The pre-summit plateau is convenient for an overnight stay. From the pre-summit to the summit, there are 100 m practically without any ascent (be cautious, with cornices on the right). The exit onto the summit, which is a large cornice, is along the visible line of rocks on the left in the direction of travel. The summit tour is arranged between two large monolithic rocks in the western part of the summit. Ascent time:

• From the bivouac site on the rocks under the southeast buttress — 5–7 hours.
• Descent from the summit via the ascent route — 12–14 hours.