ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — rock
2. West Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge
3. V. Obmanschivaya, NW wall
4. 3A difficulty category (approximate).
5. Height difference 700 m
6. Rock pitons hammered — 12/0, ice — 0/0, bolted — 0/0. Used protection — 4
7. Climbing hours 12
8. No overnight stays
9. Group members:
10. Belov E. — leader 2nd sports category
11. Smertev Yu. — participant 2nd sports category
12. Alexeeva L. — 2nd sports category
13. Mikhailov Yu. — 2nd sports category
14. Andikaev N. — 2nd sports category
15. Coach — Rafikov Sh.
16. Date of departure on the route September 14, 1988
17. Date of return from the route September 14, 1988
18. Ascent was made during classification camps of the Kazakhstan climbers' club200 m, 2 cat. diff.

June 6 Makhubar

ROUTE DESCRIPTION

V. Obmanschivaya, NW wall

From the lower lakes, we follow a good trail to the route of 3A cat. diff. and traverse right. The landmark is a standalone rock (tooth). The start of the route is from the saddle between the tooth and the wall. The control cairn is also located here.

First wall:

• climb via a crack with piton protection;
• at the top, there is a convenient place to set up belay.

Further:

• traverse right along the wall;
• easy climbing;
• we reach a couloir turning into a chimney with a "cork";
• rockfall hazard.

Under the "cork":

• set up a belay station;
• pass the "cork";
• traverse to the chute.

Chute:

• smooth, can be icy in spring;
• we exit onto the ridge via the chute.

Movement along the ridge is simultaneous. We reach a gendarme and overcome it with alternating belays. We proceed along the pre-summit ridge simultaneously. Descent is to the left and down a couloir to the lower lakes.