ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: «Kyzylbash» — 4200 m via the center of the NE face
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 820 m
   • Average steepness: 84°
   • Length of sections: R1 45 m, R2 450 m, R3 315 m
6. Pitons hammered in:
   • Rock pitons: 115
   • Nut placements: 90
   • Bolt pitons: 2
   • Friends: 3
7. Total climbing time: 22 hours
8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: one sitting bivouac
9. Full names of participants and their climbing qualifications: František Piątek — Master of Sports of International Class, Róbert Kukučka — Master of Sports
10. Date of ascent and return: 13–14 September 1988
11. Organization: SKF «Altex»

Technical photos:

• Rafikov's Route, category 6A
• Timofeyev's Route, category 5B
• Route of the double team, category 6A (original route)

DESCRIPTION OF THE APPROACH TO THE ROUTE

The peak 4200, locally known as «Kyzylbash», meaning «Red Head», is located in a spur of the Ugam ridge (Western Tian-Shan), which bounds the valley of the Anaulgen river, a tributary of the Pskem river.

Peak 4200 stands out due to:

• its significant prominence;
• relatively monolithic and steep walls on the north and northeast sides;
• its contrast with the surrounding peaks and heavily eroded rocks.

From the city of Chimkent, one can reach the ascent object as follows:

• Drive through the settlements of Georgievka and Kaskasu (80 km of asphalt) to the Sayram-Su gorge.
• Then ascend to the confluence of the Kergely river and its unnamed tributary (30 km of dirt road).

Here, a base camp can be established. From the base camp, the path goes upstream (see diagram) along the trail following the Kergely river, then the Chimbulak river, and further along its right tributary to the glacier descending from the Granitny pass. The distance from the base camp to the Granitny pass is 10–11 km, requiring 6–7 hours of approach.

From the Granitny pass, descend into the Anaulgen river valley to the moraine of the third glacier. On the right, as you descend, is the assault camp, 2–2.5 km away, with a descent time of 1 hour.

From the assault camp:

• ascend to the moraine;
• then proceed along the glacier to the NE wall of peak 4200;
• one hour of approach.