The ascent route to the peaks "Sypuchaya" and "Obmanchivaya".
Description
Ascent to the peak "Obmanchivaya" in the Ugam range
Height 3900 m (above sea level). First ascent.
The peak "Obmanchivaya" is located in the lateral ridge of the Ugam range, which stretches from southeast to northwest. To the northwest of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies the peak "Sypuchaya", and to the east, on the main ridge, lies the Unnamed peak. Three ridges branch out from the peak "Obmanchivaya": one stretches to the south, the second to the west, and the third to the east. Between the southern and eastern ridges lies a rock wall with a steepness of about 90° and a length of up to 300–400 m. Ascent routes to the peak "Obmanchivaya" are possible via the aforementioned ridges and wall. There is no glaciation on the peak "Obmanchivaya".
From the intermediate camp located on the moraine by the lake, we depart at 5:00, moving eastward along the moraines, then turning north. The path lies between the terminal slopes of the ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the southern ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya", advancing on dense snow, with visible traces of avalanches that descended from the slopes of the peak "Sypuchaya".
After 2.5 hours, we approach the western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya". To our left (in the direction of travel) lies the western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya", its southern side dropping off in walls, with snow not holding on them, thus the gorge is filled with snow. Between the Western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the Western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies a narrow gorge, through which avalanches pass, as the ridges almost connect with a rock col.
Early in the morning, it is possible to advance directly "head-on" as the snow is frozen due to the night frost. The length of the gorge is 50–60 m. Before and beyond the gorge, the slope steepness is 50–60°. Reaching the western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya", we turn right and advance to the left (in the direction of travel) along the ridge towards the southern ridge. After 1.5 hours, we approach a gap in the western ridge. The ascent to the gap is not complicated: the rocks are easy but heavily damaged, requiring great care to avoid dislodging rocks onto a companion. From the gap, we descend onto a snowy slope between the western slopes of the ridges of the peaks "Obmanchivaya" and "Sypuchaya"; the col between the peaks "Sypuchaya" and "Obmanchivaya" is visible. This col is also visible from the intermediate camp located by the lake. Then, keeping to the right side (in the direction of travel), we advance upwards, using an ice axe for belay. The snow is dense, so sometimes we have to cut steps with the ice axe. After 1.5–2 hours of walking on snow, we reach the col (the steepness of the snowy slope from the gap to the col is 35–40°).
The col is a very convenient place for a bivouac in case of bad weather.
Further, the path from the col goes in a southerly direction along rocks of medium difficulty (for alternating belay, we use ledges and pitons). The peak itself has the form of a "finger", on which a cairn is built, and a note is left in an iron can. We reached the summit at 14:30.
The time taken for the ascent was 9 hours 30 minutes. From the summit, all the ridges are clearly visible. They represent a chaotic jumble of "gendarmerie" posts, heavily damaged.
On the summit itself, fossilized shells and vegetation are visible in the rocks, indicating that this was once the seabed.
The descent is made via the ascent route. Descending to the gap requires care with belay. After the gap, it is possible to glissade. The descent takes 3–3.5 hours.
During the ascent, 3 rock pitons were hammered in. The total time taken for the ascent and descent was 13 hours. The weather began to deteriorate around 15:00. The first ascent was made on May 11, 1962. The route corresponds to category 2A.
Group leader:
- S. P. Skuratovich
- D. A. Bashlykov
- M. T. Dyusimaliev
- V. K. Filinov