The Peak of Courage

Transfigured by the last rays of the sun, the Trans-Ili Alatau mountains become a fantastical sight… The departing sun's final beams slide along the ridge, painting the ice- and snow-capped peaks a fiery red. As the light fades, one peak remains aglow like a torch against the darkening sky: Pik Komsomola. Mountains, like people, have their own biographies. Little is known about unconquered peaks beyond their altitude, while others have inspired poetic legends. Pik Komsomola belongs to the latter category of majestic mountains with an intriguing history. The people of Almaty had attempted to conquer Pik Komsomola, looming above their city, on multiple occasions, only to be forced to retreat each time. With each failure, the peak's reputation grew, and legends about its inaccessibility were born. Thirty-seven years ago, T. Beloglazov, I. Mysovskiy, and V. Gorbunov successfully ascended Maloalmatinskiy peak (now known as Pik Komsomola). This inaugural ascent is considered the birthdate of high-altitude mountaineering in Kazakhstan. In the summer of 1935, on the initiative of the capital's Komsomol organization, a mass Komsomol alpinada was organized to conquer Maloalmatinskiy peak[^1]. In a single day, 250 participants reached the summit. The public highly praised the mountaineers' feat. The Presidium of the Kazakh Central Executive Committee issued a special decree: "The Kazakh Central Executive Committee notes the brilliant victory of the Almaty Komsomol members, who, in honor of the 15th anniversary of the Kazakh SSR, conquered Maloalmatinskiy peak in a group of 250. Such an ascent has occurred for the first time in the history of mass mountaineering." The Kazakh Central Executive Committee expressed gratitude to all participants and hoped that each of them would become an organizer of mass mountain conquests. The Presidium of the Kazakh Central Executive Committee decreed:

Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Bogdanovich Glacier, exit onto its right branch, ascend along it to the saddle between Fizkulturnik peak and the Peak of Komsomol. From here, the ascent route begins along a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of 60 m. Approaching the foot of the first gendarme, organize belay through a ledge and traverse an icy couloir for up to 30 m. Further, traverse along slabs to the front rocks of the first gendarme on the right for 120 m. Here, at its foot, near a rocky tooth, is the first control point. The route continues along a small ledge and a ridge to an icy couloir. Having ascended along it for 80 m alongside a steep rocky wall on the left, exit onto a small shoulder (piton belay), then to the base of a rocky couloir covered with wall ice (piton belay for 30 m). Beyond the couloir:

• ascend along a steep snowy scree on the left with a height gain over 100–120 m;
• then ascend along a steep icy couloir to the ridge.

Kazakh Mountaineers and Tourists Club

1962 Alma-Ata

Description

Ascent to Peak Komsomola (4376 m) via the Northwest Ridge It is advisable to organize an overnight stay at the moraine of Bогдановича glacier, at the foot of the western ridge of v. Komsomol. From the bivouac, the path goes along the snow-covered scree to the left of the western ridge of Komsomol towards the saddle between the peaks Fizzkulturnik and Komsomol. When ascending, stay on the left side. On the saddle, there is a control cairn. After the saddle, the 1st small gendarme is bypassed on the right along easy rocks, after which we approach the base of a rock wall 6–7 m high, blocking the ridge. The rocks are steep, in some places overhanging (on the lower part, there are ice walls 60–70° on the right and left). The wall is overcome on the right side by complex climbing with piton belay to the left and upwards, belaying through ice screws. A 40 m rope is required to bypass the wall on the ice.

Ascent to the peak Kopr from the north-west, route 4б difficulty category (Fig. 45 а) From the Talgar alpine camp:

• up the trail going past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge;
• further along the trail to the Ozerny glacier;
• along the right lateral moraine;
• then along the glacier to the foot of the Kopr peak. Here, on the moraine, is the overnight stay. From the camp to the overnight stay is 3–3.5 hours walk. The route begins with an ascent up a snowy slope with a steepness of 30° and goes up to a large hollow. In the second half of summer, the glacier is cleared of snow, and crevices are open. From the overnight stay to the hollow is 4 hours walk. Movement is with alternate belay through ice screws. Sometimes the use of crampons is required. From the hollow to a rocky island having a characteristic triangular shape. The rocks are not difficult. In the upper part of the rocks is the 1st control cairn. The route further goes sharply to the right, crossing the ice slope, steepness up to 50°, length up to 80 m. Belay is with pitons. Step cutting is required. Exit to broken rocks. This section begins with a wall, which is bypassed on the right along rocks of medium difficulty. Move with alternate belay. At the top is the 2nd control cairn. Along broken rocks to the ice slope. Further - on crampons along the ice "sabre". Belay with pitons (5 pitons). Sticking to the rocks, move up to the right onto the ridge.

Route Description

Peak Kosmodemyanskaya is located in the western branch of the Malo-Almatinsky ridge, which is a watershed of the Malaya and Bolshaya Almatinka rivers. Ridges stretch from it to the northeast, northwest, and south. On the northeastern side, a small eponymous glacier descends from its slopes. The initial bivouac is organized on the platforms among the ancient moraine ramparts of the Molodezhny glacier. Then:

• Go to the left lateral moraine of the Tuyuk-Su glacier and along it — to the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier.
• Ascend to the upper snow plateau.
• Move along the ridge between the first and second gendarmes to the very summit. From the saddle:
• Ascend along the large talus to the right rib of the second gendarme.

168

Kazakh Republican Climbers' Club

Description of the ascent to the peak named after Sarym Kuderin

Alma-Ata, 1966 The Sarym Kuderin peak is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau in the area of the Gorodetsky Glacier northeast of the Legostaev peak. The peak is double-headed. The eastern dome is named Sarym Kuderin peak. The height of the peak is 4300 m above sea level. To the north-northwest, a hanging glacier descends. The north buttress is a rocky part. The steepness of the rocks is up to 55–65°. The rocks are destroyed. The snow line starts from the north at a height of 3500–3600 m. To the south, there are snowy slopes, to the east - a ridge to a nameless peak with cornices. The ascent in winter conditions was made at the beginning of December 1964 by a group of the "Burevestnik" sports society. Approaches:

• From the Alma-Ata lake along the trail.
• In the area of alpine meadows, the trail is snowed in.

Location, History of Ascent, and Approach Routes

Peak named after I. V. Kurchatov is located in one of the spurs of the Left Talgar river basin and closes the Rusakova river gorge, which flows into the Left Talgar river (see map). The peak is clearly visible from the Kuldzhinsky tract on the segment between Malaya Stanitsa and Almaty tobacco farm, and has an impressive appearance. Its approximate height is 4200 m. It is not surprising that, being unclimbed, it attracted the attention of mountaineers from the Institute of Nuclear Physics of the Academy of Sciences of the Kazakh SSR. From the scientific town of INF, its summit stands out with its strict outlines against the background of surrounding peaks (photo 1, 2). Therefore, in August 1966, a group of mountaineers from INF consisting of:

• Saprykin V. D. — Master of Sports
• Il'inykh A. M. — 3rd sports category
• Gubanova A. M. — 3rd sports category
• Mukhamedshina D. M. — 3rd sports category accompanied by an observation group, made the first ascent to the unnamed peak 4200 m. Paying tribute to the achievements of the outstanding Soviet physicist I. V. Kurchatov (1903–1960), the mountaineer-physicists, as the first ascenders, named the conquered peak after I. V. Kurchatov.

Route Description

The peak named after Manshuk Mametova, a glorious daughter of the Kazakh people and a Hero of the Soviet Union, is located in the main ridge of the Maloalmatinsky spur. To the south of it lies the peak Antikainen, and to the north lies the pass of the same name (3750 m). From the Mynzhilki weather station:

• Cross the Malaya Almatinka river.
• Go around the ancient moraines of the Manshuk Mametova glacier and the western ridge of the Antikainen peak.
• Move along the foot of the ridge, gradually gaining altitude.
• Ascend via the right lateral moraine of the Mayakovsky glacier to the last couloir descending from the southern side of the western ridge of the Antikainen peak. Ascend the couloir to its fork and continue along the right branch (the rocks are crumbling, be careful!). Then, via the talus on the left side of the couloir, reach the junction of the lateral and main ridges. Cross the talus and reach the main ridge. The Antikainen peak rises insignificantly above the ridge and is an acute tower with a cairn (tur) on it. The route continues north along the snowy ridge, which leads to a large gendarme with sheer walls. The gendarme is easily bypassed from the western side via a huge depression. Behind it lies a snow-ice ridge 100–120 m long. Here, one should stay on the western side, as the ridge drops to the east with a wall and cornices, leading to the rocky massif of the Manshuk Mametova peak.

Manshuk Mametova Peak 2A cat. via 3rd slope from Mametova Glacier

Route description. From the Alpengrad site, take the trail to Manshuk-Mametova Glacier. Move along it towards the saddle between Manshuk-Mametova and Antikainen peaks under the ice wall. Organize rope teams after crossing the even part of the glacier. At the beginning of the ascent, the route goes along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of up to 35° (rope protection is set up). Then, traverse left towards the foot of the ice-snow forehead. To overcome the forehead, it is necessary to set up rope protection, sometimes piton belay. Further, navigating through crevices, reach the saddle. When moving in the upper part of the glacier, use piton belay. From the saddle, ascend via a couloir along small scree, then along snow or ice. When moving in the couloir, stick to the left side. In case of ice exposure in its upper part, set up rope protection. The couloir leads to moderate-difficulty rocks. From there, continue to a steep snow patch, the passage of which requires thorough belay and great caution (the massif of the peak drops off towards Manshuk-Mametova Glacier with a 300-meter wall). When ascending with large groups, from the exit from the couloir to the summit, it is necessary to set up rope protection (2 ropes). A cairn with a note is located in the northern part of the summit. Descend via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9-10 hours.

Recommendations:

• 1. Number of participants: 12-14 people.

2. Initial bivouac: Alpengrad.
3. Departure from bivouac at 5:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope 2 × 30 m
• rock pitons: 4-5 pcs.
• ice screws: 4-6 pcs.

Report

on the ascent of Pik Suloeva via the SW wall, right buttress, category 5B, second ascent, Central Pamir, Fortambek Glacier; accomplished by a group of climbers from the CS F and S expedition from August 10 to 12, 1980, consisting of:

• Petrov A.E. — leader, 1st sports category, instructor
• Maltsev I.V. — participant, 1st sports category, doctor
• Troyanov V.M. — participant, 1st sports category
• Filonov Yu.V. — participant, 1st sports category MOSCOW 1980 Since the first ascenders do not submit their route for classification, by agreement with V. M. Bozhukov, this route can be considered a first ascent. November 20, 1980 A.E. Petrov

Pik Suloeva