Manshuk Mametova Peak 2A cat. via 3rd slope from Mametova Glacier
Route description. From the Alpengrad site, take the trail to Manshuk-Mametova Glacier. Move along it towards the saddle between Manshuk-Mametova and Antikainen peaks under the ice wall. Organize rope teams after crossing the even part of the glacier. At the beginning of the ascent, the route goes along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of up to 35° (rope protection is set up). Then, traverse left towards the foot of the ice-snow forehead. To overcome the forehead, it is necessary to set up rope protection, sometimes piton belay. Further, navigating through crevices, reach the saddle. When moving in the upper part of the glacier, use piton belay. From the saddle, ascend via a couloir along small scree, then along snow or ice. When moving in the couloir, stick to the left side. In case of ice exposure in its upper part, set up rope protection. The couloir leads to moderate-difficulty rocks. From there, continue to a steep snow patch, the passage of which requires thorough belay and great caution (the massif of the peak drops off towards Manshuk-Mametova Glacier with a 300-meter wall). When ascending with large groups, from the exit from the couloir to the summit, it is necessary to set up rope protection (2 ropes). A cairn with a note is located in the northern part of the summit. Descend via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9-10 hours.
Recommendations:
-
- Number of participants: 12-14 people.
- Initial bivouac: Alpengrad.
- Departure from bivouac at 5:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope 2 × 30 m
- rock pitons: 4-5 pcs.
- ice screws: 4-6 pcs.
- carabiners: 6 pcs.
- hammers: 2 pcs.
Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Climbing Routes. Trans-Ili Alatau". Part 1
Manshuk Mametova Peak
via Western slope from Mametova Glacier
2A cat.
