Ascent to the peak Kopr from the north-west, route 4б difficulty category (Fig. 45 а)

From the Talgar alpine camp:

• up the trail going past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge;
• further along the trail to the Ozerny glacier;
• along the right lateral moraine;
• then along the glacier to the foot of the Kopr peak.

Here, on the moraine, is the overnight stay. From the camp to the overnight stay is 3–3.5 hours walk.

The route begins with an ascent up a snowy slope with a steepness of 30° and goes up to a large hollow. In the second half of summer, the glacier is cleared of snow, and crevices are open. From the overnight stay to the hollow is 4 hours walk. Movement is with alternate belay through ice screws. Sometimes the use of crampons is required.

From the hollow to a rocky island having a characteristic triangular shape. The rocks are not difficult. In the upper part of the rocks is the 1st control cairn. The route further goes sharply to the right, crossing the ice slope, steepness up to 50°, length up to 80 m. Belay is with pitons. Step cutting is required. Exit to broken rocks. This section begins with a wall, which is bypassed on the right along rocks of medium difficulty. Move with alternate belay. At the top is the 2nd control cairn. Along broken rocks to the ice slope. Further - on crampons along the ice "sabre". Belay with pitons (5 pitons). Sticking to the rocks, move up to the right onto the ridge.

The path along the ridge leads to the Proval. Here is the overnight stay place. From Proval, ascent to the ridge. On the left is a high steep gendarme, the rocks are difficult, bypassed on the right along snow and broken rocks. Careful alternate belay is required. Then rocks of medium difficulty, exit to the pre-summit ridge.

Pre-summit ridge:

• Sharp, rocky
• On it is the third control cairn
• The last section of the ascent to the summit is along snow
• The summit is dome-shaped
• Cairn in the rocks

Descent from the summit to the south along rocks, then along a snowy slope. Further ascent to a snowy "hat" and descent along a snowy slope to Priyut Pyati. Continuing the descent along the southern ridge - along an icy, местами firn slope.

Drive two ice screws and can descend in a sportsmanlike manner with belay on a 40-meter rope to the rocks. From the rocks to the left for another 50–60 m. Belay through ledges. Cross the ice slope (45°) to the right for about sixty meters.

Further:

• Through the bergschrund to the Kels cairn along a snowy slope,
• Further to the Rakhimov bivouac,
• From it along the left edge of the Kopr glacier - exit to the trail leading to the alpine camp.

The entire descent from the summit to the camp takes up to seven hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants - not more than 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the Ozerny glacier.
3. Departure from the initial bivouac at 4:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main ropes 2 × 40 m; b) expendable reepschnur 8 m; c) rock pitons 6 pcs.; d) ice screws 8 pcs.; e) hammers 2 pcs.; f) crampons 4 pairs.