Bolshaya Marka
Fig. 11
Ascent to Bolshaya Marka peak (3768 m) - Cat. 1B (Fig. 11)
From Dombay plain, take the road to the "Alibek" alpine camp and continue on the trail to "Semidesyatitrekh" pass. The journey from Dombay plain takes 5-6 hours. From the pass, descend north down a steep snowy slope (ensure belaying!), then traverse scree and grassy slopes to reach a meadow in the Kiche-Teberda gorge. Set up a bivouac. The total time from Dombay plain is 8-9 hours.
Continue by traversing a grassy slope (under the trigonometric point) upwards to the left, towards the western edge of the ridge. Then, proceed up a large scree slope into a hanging valley bounded by the southwest ridge on the right and the west ridge of Bolshaya Marka peak on the left. A high rock face is visible on the slope of the western ridge.
Ascend the slope under the rock face, bypass it on the left, and continue up the slope to the northern buttress of the peak. Traverse scree to reach the col between the peak and a large gendarme. Then:
- proceed right-upwards along a rocky slope (weathered rocks!),
- reach the ridge,
- then traverse ledges to the summit.
Rocky walls on the ridge (2-4 m high) require belaying!
- Time from bivouac to the summit: 5-6 hours.
- Descent to bivouac: 3 hours.
The ascent from the large scree slope to the summit, especially during descent, is prone to rockfall!
Return to Dombay via "Semidesyat Strel" pass or Khuty.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Group size: up to 40-50 people (training unit).
- Initial bivouac: meadow in the Kiche-Teberda valley.
- Departure time from bivouac: 4-5 am.
- Special equipment for a group of 4: a) 2 × 20 m main rope; b) 2 m of sacrificial rope; c) 2-3 rock pitons; d) 1 rock hammer; e) 5-6 carabiners.
