Fig. 33

8. Ascent to Mitnikov Peak (3700 m) via the Eastern Ridge — Cat. 3B (Fig. 33)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail, then cross the Dombay River via a ford, and ascend along grassy slopes, scree, and rocky outcrops on the left side of the Inye Glacier (in rope connections on the glacier!) to a snow plateau.

Continue:

• Left — ascend to the col between Maly Inye Peak (Zoloto Peak) and the spur of the Eastern summit of Jughuturuchat.
• Cross the col and exit onto the Eastern Jughuturuchat Glacier (the glacier is avalanche-prone, belay!).
• Traverse the glacier to the left — diagonally — upwards towards the eastern counterfort of Mitnikov Peak.

When traversing the glacier, ice-firn avalanches are possible in the area of the exit to the firn plateau!

Continue:

• Bypass the counterfort from the left (crevasses!).
• Ascend the snowy slope upwards for 300–350 m.
• Exit to the right — upwards onto the crest of the counterfort and along it upwards (belay!) towards the base of the summit obelisk — upwards, bivouac (Kropf's overnight stay).

From Dombayskaya Polyana, 11–12 hours.

From the bivouac, ascend 60 m along scree, then to the right into a wide crack and up it for 8–10 m to a ledge. From the ledge, traverse left into the ridge crest and along smoothed rocks for 200–250 m (only piton belay!) upwards towards the black wall. Bypass the wall from the right along a 25–30 m ledge, ascend a steep black chute for 15–18 m (piton belay!), exit onto uncomplicated steep rocks and along a 30–40 m ledge to the right of the summit — onto the crest. From the crest, traverse left onto the summit.

From the bivouac to the summit:

• 5–6 hours.

Descent follows the ascent route (on steep sections — rappel!) to the bivouac, taking 5–6 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac — Kropf's overnight stay.
3. Departure time from the bivouac — no later than 6:00 AM.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×40 m; b) disposable cordelette — 10 m; c) rock pitons — 10–12; d) ice screws — 2; e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 10; g) crampons — 4 pairs.
5. Possible bivouac location — on the crest to the right of the summit.