Fig. 3

1. Ascent to the Marukh-bashi summit (3798 m) via the southeastern ridge — category III difficulty (Fig. 3A)

From the bivouac on the South Karakay glacier — ascend to the saddle in the southern ridge between the Marukh-kaya and Marukh-bashi peaks. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and then ascend a steep snowy slope for 150–170 m (belay!) to a rocky outcrop, and on its left side, reach the snowy slope above the rocky outcrop. Ascend the snowy slope with a steepness of 55–60° for 130–150 m (belay!), exit onto the ridge to the right of the first gendarme, and then continue along the ridge to the second gendarme. To ascend the second gendarme, initially climb straight up (slabby rocks, piton belay!), then traverse 8–10 m under the top of the gendarme to the left along ledges, and descend to the ridge. Continue along the ridge, bypassing several gendarmes (belay through outcrops!), exit into a snowy-ice couloir (steepness 35–40°, belay!), and ascend 90 m up the couloir to a "broken" gendarme. Bypass the "broken" gendarme on the left along ledges and exit onto the ridge. Continue along the ridge through a series of gendarmes (partly on the ridge crest) — approach a large ascent with a white overhanging wall. Ascend the white wall directly up for 60 m (monolithic, difficult rocks, piton belay, 6–7 pitons!) — exit onto the ridge and ascend uncomplicated rocky sections of the ridge to the summit. The journey from the first gendarme to the summit takes 4–4.5 hours. Descent via the ascent route — 6 hours. Descent from the white wall and the second gendarme — by rappel. The route is rockfall-prone!

Recommendations for climbers

1. The number of participants in the group — no more than 4 people.
2. Initial bivouac — moraine on the South Karakay glacier.
3. Departure time from the bivouac — no later than 4:00 AM.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) auxiliary cord — 4 m; c) rock pitons — 6–8; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons — 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations: 1st — on the ridge behind the first gendarme; 2nd — behind the large ascent.