Fig. 50

1. Ascent to Maly Dombay-Ulgen peak (3800 m) from the west — category 2B difficulty (Fig. 50 and 51, left and center)

From Dombayskaya polyana along the trail, to the right of Chuchkhur waterfalls, to Ptyshskaya nochovka. From Dombayskaya polyana 3–4 hours. From the nochovka to the left upwards along alpine meadows (partially a trail) to the left-bank moraine of Dombaysky glacier, from there to the left to the "ram's foreheads" and through them to the right-bank moraine (icefall possible!). Further upwards along the moraine along the glacier to a gentle green couloir. Through it to the southeast ridge of Maly Dombay and along the large talus to two

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Caucasus.
2. Rock class.
3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
4. Peak Dombay-Ulgen Western (4036 m), through the center of the Triangle of the southern wall.
5. Proposed 6B category difficulty, first ascent.
6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length — 1690 m; length of sections 5–6 category difficulty — 605 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (Triangle South wall) — 84°;

Passport

1. Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
2. Dombai-Ulgen Western, via the bastion (bastion) of the southern wall.
3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character: rock.
5. Height difference: 1036 m. Route length — 1450 m. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 230 m, 6th category of difficulty — 130 m; Average steepness: main part of the route from the base of the wall to the ridge (excluding the talus hollow) — 72° (3070–3950).

Route Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Dombay, section number according to KMGV 2.2.
2. Dombay Western 4036 m via the counterfort of the South wall.
3. 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is rock.
5. The height difference of the route is 1036 m (by altimeter). Route length 1715 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty 255 m. Length of sections with VI category of difficulty 75 m. Average steepness: main part of the route 80°, total route 55°.

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Caucasus.
2. Rock class.
3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
4. Peak Dombai-Ulgen Western (4036 m), via the bastion of the southern wall.
5. 6A category of difficulty, second ascent.
6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length – 1450 m; length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty – 360 m; average steepness of the main part of the route: base of the wall — ridge (excluding talus) – 72° (3070–3950); start of the route (“claw”) — summit – 55° (3000–4036).
7. Pitons hammered (including in the denominator for IT): rock 70/27, ice 0/0, bolt 0/0, anchor 155/51

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent area: Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route: Zapadny Dombay-Ulgen (4037 m) (5B category of difficulty) from the south via the green counterfort.
4. Ascent description: height difference 950 (to the ridge) + 100 = 1050 m. Average steepness 60°. Length of the complex section 350 m.
5. Number of pitons driven:

• rock 102
• ice —
• bolt —

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table:
2. Caucasus 2.2. From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass (Dombay region)
3. Peak name: Dombay (West) 4036 m Route name: via Western ridge Complexity category: 5B
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference of the route: 1300 m

Ascent Passport

1. Class — rock climbing
2. Area — Main Caucasian Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
3. Peak — Dombay (3), 4039 m, via Western counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 1470 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 315 m, average steepness 55°
6. Pitons driven: rock (including chocks) — for belay — 94
7. Climbing hours — 27

MAIN CHARACTERISTICS TABLE OF THE SECTION

Date	Designation	Average steepness	Length	Relief character
28 August 1980	0–1	35	200	Sheep's backs
Entered the route at 7:00	1–2	45	300	Ridge
	2–3	80	40	Internal corner
	3–4	70	240	Counterfort
Set up for the night at 18:00	4–5	45	80	Ridge, shelves
29 August 1980	5–6	90	40	Wall
Started the route at 8:00	6–7	50	30	Narrow ridge

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Западный Домбай–Ульген via the western edge (approximately 5B cat. diff.) The ascent was made from August 17 to 20, 1973, by a group consisting of: V. Sukharev — leader V. Neborak A. Volkov Alibek — 1973 g.

Домбай–Ульген West