Fig. 3

2. Ascent to the Marukh-bashi summit via the northern ridge — category 3B difficulty (Fig. 3B)

From the Yuzhno-Karakayskiy pass (overnight stay on the moraine under the pass) ascend up to the right along the snow to the right side of the ridge to the rocks. Then move left along the rocks for 60 m and reach the main ridge. Along the heavily fragmented rocks of the main ridge (rockfall hazard!) ascend 90 m upwards and continue along the clearly defined ridge to the slabs. Bypass the slabs on the right (40–50 m) and reach the first ascent. From the ridge, move right to bypass the ascent (8 m), then climb 20 m upwards along the wall of the ascent (piton protection!) and reach the ridge 3–4 m below the upper part of the ascent. Continue along the ridge (protection via protrusions!) towards the second ascent (60 m high), which is overcome head-on with piton protection. There is a bivouac site behind the ascent.

Further, move 60–70 m along the ridge to the beginning of the third, steep, ascent. From under the ascent, traverse 60 m along the ledge to the left and upwards (piton protection!), then ascend 10 m to a "pillar" and behind it move left to a "perilka" (narrow ridge). From the "perilka", climb up along the left side of the large ascent (piton protection!) to an internal corner, ascend 50 m upwards along it (piton!), and reach a point above the steep ascent of the ridge. Continue along the ridge (rocks of medium difficulty, slab-like, protection via protrusions and pitons!) to reach the summit.

• From the pass: 6–7 hours
• Descent along the ascent route takes 7–8 hours
• Descent from the ridge to the saddle and from the first ascent is via rappel

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants in the group should not exceed 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac: Yuzhno-Karakayskiy pass.
3. Departure time from the bivouac: not later than 5:00 AM.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×40 m; b) expendable reepschnur — 6 m; c) rock pitons — 6–8; d) hammers — 2; e) carabiners — 8.
5. Possible bivouac sites: 1st — behind the first ascent; 2nd — on the summit.