Fig.­ 1

3.­ Ascent to the summit Uzlovaya Kara-kaya (Zapadnaya Dvuushka, 3620­ m) from the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass — category of difficulty (see Fig.­ 1)

From the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass, first along a steep (45–50°) snowy slope, and then along the ledges upwards to the slab (protection!). Under the slab, along the ledges to the right and on the right side of the slab (piton protection!) — exit upwards to the ridge. Further along the right side of the ridge (simple rocks, but heavily destroyed, prone to rockfall!) — ascent to the ledge with several pinnacles. Under the ledge, exit to the left side of the ridge and along the moderately difficult rocks (protection through the ledges!) — ascent to the yellow ascent. Bypassing the yellow ascent first on the left 5–6 m, and then up the crack (piton!) and exit under the gendarme. Ascent to the gendarme head-on (protection!) and further along the destroyed rocks (prone to rockfall!) — to the summit. From the pass 4–5 hours. When descending from the snowy slope, beware of rockfall!

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac — moraine under the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass.
3. Time of departure from the bivouac — no later than 4–5 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2 m; c) rock pitons — 5; d) ice pitons — 2 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons — 4 pairs (in the second half of summer)
5. Possible bivouac locations: 1st — on the moraine; 2nd — on the summit.