Fig. 1

1. Ascent to the summit of Zapadnaya Kara-kaya (3570 m) from the Zapadno-Karakaysky pass — cat. diff. 6B (Fig. 1)

The approach to the Kara-kaya massif can be made by two variants: 1st variant. From Dombayskaya polyana, drive by car through Karachaevsk and stanitsa Kardanikskaya to the settlement of Rudnichny. Below Rudnichny, cross the river Aksaut via a log bridge, then proceed 700–800 m upstream along the river and ascend the slope to the right and upwards to a shepherd's trail. Follow the trail to the site of old sheepfolds and further across the glacier to the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass. From Rudnichny, it takes 6–7 hours. 2nd variant. From Dombayskaya polyana, descend via Sulakhatsky or Alibeksky pass (through the "green hotel") to the Jalovchat glacier, cross it slightly above the tongue, and ascend a steep scree slope to the green shoulder of the northern spur of the Aksaut massif — bivouac site. From Dombayskaya polyana: 8–9 hours (Sulakhatsky and Alibeksky passes — cat. diff. 1A).

104

Central Council of the "Trud" Voluntary Sports Society

"Krasnaya Zvezda" Alpine Camp

Report

on the first ascent of the Northwest wall of Kara-Kaya Main peak (approximately category 6B) Team members:

• USSR Master of Sports Andreev R.N. - team leader
• Assorov A.V. - participant
• Shkrabkin A.S. - participant

Report on the Ascent in the Area

of the Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass to the summit of Glavnaya Karakaya via NW wall (left part) (3896 m) by the team of instructors from DOMBAY alpine camp:

• SAVCHUK V.A. — CMS
• KOROTKOV V.A. — MS
• KARPOV Yu.G. — CMS
• PERKOVSKY L.I. — CMS
• MOCHNIKOV E.I. — CMS
• AZARYEV I.A. — 1st sports category Team coaches: MAGOMEDOV Kh.K.; KUROCHKINA Z.V. DOMBAY — 1974

1. Class of ascent: technically complex
2. Region of ascent ridge: Western Caucasus, Karvkeysky spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge, Kara-Kaya node between South-Karvkeysky and Mvruhsky passes.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Glavnaya Karakaya, 3890 m. Rocky route along the Eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: — 3А
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference 570 m. Average steepness 33°. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — none.
6. Number of pitons driven: For belaying for creating artificial support points | rock | 9 | 2 (organization of descents) |

пр. № 431 от 1/3-77, п.4. ЗА, пп.

Report on the Ascent of Main Kara-Kaya Peak via the First Ascent Route on the Eastern Ridge, approximately Category 3B difficulty, August 8, 1975

Main Kara-Kaya Peak is located in the Karakai spur of the Main Caucasian Range. The peak can be accessed via four ridges:

• Eastern
• South-Eastern
• Northern
• South-Western Favorable weather conditions, convenient access routes, and an abundance of classified and unclassified routes of various difficulty levels make this peak highly interesting for mountaineers. The following routes have been classified on Main Kara-Kaya Peak:
• via the South-Eastern ridge — Category 2B

DESCRIPTION

of the ascent route to Peak KAP From the Ali-Bek base camp along the trail through the Ali-Bek river up to the Belalakai canyon via the "Monkey trail" to the overnight stay. 1.5 hours. From the overnight stay through a snow bridge in the canyon or via a wedged stone to the trail on the right-bank moraine of the Belalakai glacier and along it to the tongue of the glacier. Crossing the tongue of the glacier in its lower part, approach under a wide green couloir and up it to the saddle on the north-eastern ridge of Peak KAP. 1.5 hours from the overnight stay. ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
3. Summit

REPORT

• on the ascent made in the area ch. Caucasian ridge and its spurs from Marukh pass to Pakhar pass to the summit of KAP PIK (3400 m) from the Belalakaisky glacier (from the north)

Group Members:

1. Slezyn Yu. — MS
2. Ovcharenko V.D. — 1st sports category
3. Pilipenko V.S. — 1st sports category
4. Volkov L.B. — 1st sports category

Ascent to Kap Peak (3207 m) — Category 1B (Fig. 16)

From the "Alibek" hut along the trail to the glacier or from the bivouac near Turye Lake along the gentle part of the Alibek Glacier — approach to the far right couloir of the Kap Peak slopes. Up the couloir (rockfall hazard!) to the cirque step. There are three ascent options: 1st option:

• To the right along the snowfield into the couloir and along the slabs (belay!) left-up to the ridge.
• Then along the ridge (belay through outcrops!).
• The upper part of the ridge is scree.
• The red rocks of the forepeak are bypassed on the right, then again exit to the ridge and along it to the summit.
• The summit dome is snow-covered.
• The journey from the bivouac to the summit takes 5–6 hours.
• Descent via the ascent route — 3–4 hours.

Report

On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic team to the summit of Pik Maly Ine (Gold) 3060 m

via the right buttress of the western wall. Presumably IV-B category of difficulty. First ascent. Semyonov M. A. — leader, Popov M. L. — Candidate for Master of Sports

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Participants of the ascent

1. Leader — Semyonov Mikhail Alexandrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A. Address: 144001, Elektrostal, Oktyabrskaya st., 8, apt. 117. Tel.: +7 (906) 724–94–53. Email: aravigehc@mail.ru
2. Popov Mikhail Lvovich, Candidate for Master of Sports, Essentuki.

Report

On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkessia national team to the summit of Pik Ine 3455 m via the Eastern ridge. Presumably category IV-B. First ascent.

Semenov M. A. — team leader, Popov M. L. — Candidate for Master of Sports

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

Climbing participants

1. Team leader — Semenov Mikhail Aleksandrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A. Address: 144001, Elektrosteel, Oktyabrskaya str., 8, apt. 117. Phone: +7 (906) 724–94–53. Email: aravigehc@mail.ru