XXXV USSR Championship rock class

Report

On the ascent of p. Shchurovsky (4259 m) via the north-eastern wall, category 5B route by V. Abalakov of the SA and Navy team

Team leader Zhak V.V., team coach Dzhibradev Yu.G.

When developing the tactical action plan for the route, the team considered the following factors:

• the volume of information about the route available to the team before the ascent;
• the weather conditions in the ascent area;
• the duration of the approach to the route;
• the level of preparedness of the team members.

To expand knowledge about the route, the team decided to observe it for a day preceding the ascent. On July 21, team members continuously observed the route (see observation and radio communication log). The observation results allowed for some adjustments to the stated tactical plan, according to which the team planned to complete the route in 10-11 hours.

This decision was made taking into account:

• the experience of joint high-paced ascents made by the team earlier: v. Bodhena via the Blodarchik route, 1 overnight stay; v. Moskovskoy Pravdy via the Solonnikov route, 2 overnight stays; p. Engel'sa via the Maltsev route, 2 overnight stays; v. Zamin-Karor 1st West via the Yefimov route, 2 overnight stays. All routes were category 6;
• as well as considering the good level of physical and technical preparation of all team members in the current season.

To facilitate achieving the set goal, the team took the following measures:

• widespread use of fixed protection on the route, allowing for a significant reduction in time required for its organization without compromising the reliability of the belay;
• organization of movement on the route:
  • in separate rope teams;
  • in a compact group;
  • simultaneously;
• changing the rope teams that went first and changing leaders within the rope teams;
• equipping each rope team with a set of gear allowing them to move independently on all forms of mountain relief.

The implementation of these measures allowed the team to complete the route ahead of the tactical plan - in 7 hours 45 minutes. The movement of team members on the route was organized as follows: on sections #0-14, the Khak-Glushkov rope team went first, on sections #14-27 - the Nosov-Trofimov rope team, on sections #27-33 - the Ayvazov-Ovsyannikov rope team. Throughout the entire route, there was a rotation of participants who went first in their rope teams. Belay points along the route were organized by the leading rope team. Subsequent rope teams used them. Sections #23-24, #26-27, #30-31 were climbed using fixed ropes. Considering the possibility of rockfall on the route and the large team size (which typically complicates communication between participants on the route), it was decided to climb the route on double 20-meter ropes. This allowed the team to move in a compact group, improved the manageability of the group's movement, and overall increased the safety of the route passage. The safety of participants going first in each rope team in case of a potential fall was ensured by using "Edelrid" ropes on the route, as well as slings with sewn-in shock absorbers.

The team's passage of the route was complicated by several factors:

• the presence of a large amount of moss on the rocks in several sections;
• the fragility of the rocks in the lower and middle parts of the route;
• the combined nature of the upper part of the route;
• bad weather (from 8:00 to 12:00, the group worked under rain and snow).

The most dangerous sections (in terms of the possibility of rockfall) were climbed by each rope team in turn, with time intervals determined by the pace of the previous rope team. Each rope team had a first-aid kit. Communication with observers was maintained via "Pribой" type radios. There were no missed communication sessions. As emergency communication means, the team had 2 red light flares. In case of an overnight stay on the route (see the backup tactical plan), all team members had bivy sacks. The group had a gas stove.