XXXV USSR Championship rock class

Report

On the ascent of p. Shchurovsky (4259 m) via the north-eastern wall, category 5B route by V. Abalakov of the SA and Navy team Team leader Zhak V.V., team coach Dzhibradev Yu.G. When developing the tactical action plan for the route, the team considered the following factors:

• the volume of information about the route available to the team before the ascent;
• the weather conditions in the ascent area;
• the duration of the approach to the route;
• the level of preparedness of the team members. To expand knowledge about the route, the team decided to observe it for a day preceding the ascent. On July 21, team members continuously observed the route (see observation and radio communication log). The observation results allowed for some adjustments to the stated tactical plan, according to which the team planned to complete the route in 10-11 hours.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Technical climbing category
2. Central Caucasus, Krumkol gorge
3. Traverse of Tikhonov Peak — Koshtantau with ascent to Tikhonov Peak via the South Face
4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent of Tikhonov Peak South Face
5. Total elevation gain: 1595 m, total distance: 2310 m, including wall section: 1070 m elevation gain, 1255 m distance. Total distance of 5–6 category sections: 870 m, including 680 m on the wall section, of which 120 m are category 6. Average steepness of the wall section: 60°
6. Total pitons used:

   Piton type	Rock	Chocks	Ice screws	Bolts
   	118	69	34	-

Ascent Logbook

1. Type of ascent: ice and snow climb.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Peak Shota Rustaveli, 4960 m, via the north face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Total height difference of the route 1340 m, height difference of the wall section 1180 m, average steepness of the wall section 48°, route length 2400 m, wall section length 1660 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 1355 m.
6. Pitons used: Ice pitons for belay 257, ITO 6, rock pitons for belay 12.
7. Total climbing hours: 24.

Ascent Passport

I. Class of ice and snow ascents 2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi 3. Peak Shota Rustaveli - 4960 m via North face (route by A. V. Laletin) 4. 5B category, fourth ascent 5. Total height difference of the route is 1360 m. Height difference of the wall section is 1200 m. Average steepness of the wall section is 48°. Route length is 2565 m. Length of the wall section is 1755 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty is 1445 m. 6. Pitons hammered: Ice pitons for belay - 250, ITO - 9. Rock pitons for belay - 13.

Climbing Report

To the summit of Erydag (3925 m) via the center of the left part of the 3rd wall (A. Nekrasov's route, 1986, 5A category of complexity) The route was completed on April 29, 2023, by the team of Alpine Club "Bars" (St. Petersburg):

• Nikolai Yakuba
• Denis Chetverikov
• Natalia Tsareva

Contents

1. Climbing Passport — 3
2. Route Description — 5
3. Tactical Actions of the Team — 6

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Central Pamir
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya, via the Southwest Ridge
4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2800 m, route length 5000 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 3000 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 50° (5100–6100 m).
6. Pitons used: rock 23/0

PASSPORT

I. High-altitude technical class 2. Pamir, Zulumart ridge, Baygakshi gorge 3. Peak Slutskoy 5910 via the "pillar" on the wall 4. Proposed 6B first ascent 5. Wall section height difference is 1040 m, length is 1495 m, followed by a ridge 1.5-2 km. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category is 825 m, the summit ridge is classified as 5B. Average steepness of the lower part is 69° (4680-5210), upper part is 81° (5250-5720), including 6th category section at 90° (5280-5380); 80° (5480-5640). 6. Pitons used: rock 106, wedges 7; boxes 121, 5; chocks 60, 6; drill-in pitons 10, 8; ice screws 13, 3. 7. Team's total climbing hours: 67:30 and 6 days. 8. Overnights: 1, 2, 3, 5 - platforms on the snow-ice slope; 4 - platform built on the wall.

1. Class of technical ascents.
2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Karavshin (Kara-su) valley
3. The summit of peak 4810 via the "mirror" of the western wall (Rusyayev's route).
4. Category of difficulty — 6B.
5. Height difference 1160 m, route length 1495 m, length of sections 5–6 c.t. 1220 m, average steepness 68°, average steepness of the wall part of the route 74°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Chocks | Bolt pitons | | :------: | :-------: | :--------: | | 55 / 12 | 156 / 24 | 1 / 0 |
7. Team's working hours — 61.5 hours, days — 5.5 days.

293 p. No 15 cm

Ascent Log

Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Central Caucasus, Suaryk gorge.
3. Suaryk Eastern peak, via the center of the NE wall, 950 m.
4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 625 m, route length 895 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty is 380 m. Average slope of the route is 63°. Average slope of the wall section is 74°.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 92, bolt — 7, chocks — 58. Left behind: rock — 7, bolt — 1.