1. The ascent category is technical.
2. The ascent area, ridge - Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. The summit, its height, ascent route - peak SAGU (4650 m), first ascent via the left part of the NW wall and N ridge.
4. The proposed difficulty category is 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 970 m, wall part - 730 m, length - 1446 m, wall part - 796 m, sections of 5-6 difficulty category - 606 m, average steepness of the wall part - 65°
6. Pitons hammered:

• rock: for belaying - 68, for ITO - 8
• placed protection: for belaying - 154

7. Number of climbing hours - 31.5 (including 10 hours of processing)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Ascent route: SAGU, 4650 m, via the "per'ya" of the North ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1050 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 720 m, average steepness 68° (up to the ridge)
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating I.T.O.:

• rock 108

2

Teams

SACS “BAKA–Dugoba 2012” on the ascent route to Mt. SAGU via the icy slope of the northern wall of the northwestern ridge "3B", (K)

Leader

Temerev I.M.

Participants

Timofeev D.I., Matveev S.V., Voronezhceva O.A., Alabugin I.V., Tyshkylova N.P., Selezneva S.V., Mukhametzhanov B.M.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, region 5.1.1. Gadjir, Mashalyan, Dugoba, Koyсу, Archakanysh rivers basin (north of the Alay range).
2. Mt. SAGU, icy slope of the Northern wall of the northwestern ridge.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent region: Pamir-Alay, Alayskiy ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. SAIV, 4650 m, via the eastern ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m average steepness — 50°, length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 500 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 360 m, 4th cat. diff. — 120 m 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating RPS (Rappel and Intermediate Protection Points): rock — 38, ice — hammer-screw 7. Number of walking hours: 9 hours

Brief description of the route approach

From Dugoba a/l, follow the trail to the confluence of the Ak-tash and Ulitor rivers, then continue along the Ulitor river trail to the moraine campsite. Then, follow the trail through two moraine ascents to the campsite under the high rocky ridge. From the campsite, ascend the scree gully to the destroyed black rocks and then rightwards along the scree to the rocky slabs. This is the starting point of the route.

MAIN ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS TABLE

I. Climbing classification 2. Climbing area 3. Peak, its height, route taken 4. Estimated category of difficulty 5. Route characteristics 6. Elevation gain 7. Length of sections Total route length 8. Average slope 9. Pitons hammered in:

First ascent to the summit "Novichok" via the South-East edge (Photo № 1 and Photo № 2). The "Novichok" summit is located in the North-Western spurs of the Alai ridge, in the lower reaches of the "Kalkush" glacier. The approach to the "Novichok" summit can be made:

• from the "Kalkush" gorge along the river of the same name to the "Kalkush" pass, with an ascent to it in 6 hours;
• along the "Dugoba" gorge to the confluence of the Uliter and Ak-Tash rivers and further along the Surmetash river with an ascent to the Kalkush pass from the North-East, 6 hours. The ascent to the "Kalkush" pass is category 1B. In the lower part, there are screes and further on snow, it takes 2-3 hours. The ascent to the "Novichok" summit along the South-East edge is carried out from the pass along the 200 m scree, then a rocky ascent along rocks of medium and easy difficulty - 450-500 m, which leads to a rocky ledge. Bypassing the "gendarme" on the left - 25 m (ropes are necessary). The second "gendarme" is passed head-on along a rocky chimney (stretching ropes), 15 m. Further ascent along rocks of medium difficulty - 3 ropes and the summit.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamir-Alai, spurs of the Kollektor Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. "Novichok" 4000 m, NE ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A category
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories, average steepness
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying — 8 rock pitons
7. Number of walking hours — 7 hours
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics —
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification

MOSCOW CITY ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 2013 TECHNICAL ASCENT CLASS

Report

ON ASCENDING THE SUMMIT OF p. Konstruktors via 5B cat. diff. route (right part of the South face, variation) The route was climbed by the MPEI team on June 26-27, 2013 (duo: Romanov Alexey, Dorfman Roman) Moscow, 2013

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Pamiro-Alai, Altai ridge, Gadzhir gorge.
2. Ascent route: p. Konstruktors, right part of the South face (variation of L. Krasnukhin's route)
3. Route characteristics: rock

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — Rock Climbing 2. Ascent Region — Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge, Gadhyr Gorge 3. Ascent Route — peak KONSTRUKTOROV, 4200 m, SOUTH wall 4. Proposed Category — 5B difficulty 5. Route Characteristics: elevation gain — 1000 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty — 320 m, average steepness — 47° 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating R.P. (Rope Placement) rock 27, chocks 34 pieces