Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, southern spurs of the Alay ridge, Kemisdykty glacier.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Skalny North summit, 4421 m, via NNE edge.
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: rock climbing. — height difference — 950 m, — average steepness: — wall part: 66°,

I. Climbing category - rock 2. Climbing area - Kemisdikty gorge, southern spurs of the Alay ridge. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route - Northern peak of Pik Skalny, via the "mirror" of the Eastern wall, 4421 m. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route - 870 m, height difference of the wall section - 750 m, "mirror" 500 m, average steepness of the wall section - 87°, length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty - 690 m 6. Pitons driven: for belaying / for ITO rock 98 / 13, bolted 0 / 4, "heavenly" 0 / 6, chocks 14 / 17 7. Number of climbing hours - 29 hours 8. Number of nights and their characteristics:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay. Alay Range.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Skalny, 4480 m via the Southwest wall, North ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m. average steepness — 35–40°, length of sections:

• I — 800 m.
• II — 680 m.
• III — 515 m.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area: Alaisky ridge, Keksu river area.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak 4480.5 m, via the southern ridge (first ascent).
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 525 m; rocky route; length of sections 5–6 km/tr; average steepness — 35°–40°.
6. Pitons driven: for belay for creating artificial holding points. Rock — Ice — Bolt —

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Kollektor Range, spur of the Alai Range.
3. Summit — Yubileynaya, 4860 m, right buttress of the S–3 wall, rocky.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1200 m average steepness — 45° length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 60 m
6. Pitons driven:

1. Climbing category: combined
2. Climbing area: AUSB "Dugoba", Kollektorsky Ridge, spur of the Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route taken: p. Yubileynaya 4860 m. Western edge and Eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2B
5. Route characteristics: combined
6. Height difference: 1260 m.
7. Length of sections:

• Cat. diff. 5
• Cat. diff. 4
• Cat. diff. 3 — 53 m.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Region 3. Peak, its height, route taken: KhUGGDUM Peak, 3850 m, West Ridge and North Crest 4. Proposed category of difficulty 5. Route characteristics: 6B category. Height difference. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty. Average steepness: West Ridge - North Crest 6. Number of pitons used: rock, ice, bolted. Number of placed protection gear used 7. Number of travel hours 8. Number of nights spent 9. Full name of the leader and participants, their qualification

124

Brief description of the approach to the route

From the Dughoba alpine training and sports base, follow the Dughoba River upstream to the Sukhoy Log gorge (1.5–2 km), 15–20 minutes. Here, cross the Dughoba River via a bridge to the right (orographic) bank. Then ascend Sukhoy Log to the ridge between the peaks Maly Zamok (3450 m) and Glavny Zamok (3943 m). The ascent takes 2.5–3 hours. From the ridge, descend to the right via a trail, bypassing the cirque without significant loss of elevation, to the opposite slope. Then traverse northward across scree slopes to a couloir descending from Peak Khurdzhum S. (3600 m) — 300–350 m. Ascend the scree-filled couloir 60–70 m upward and traverse across scree shelves 120 m northward to a "cork" (a huge overhanging rock, 15×10 m in size). The route then proceeds upward to the left, onto the cork and to the 3rd ridge from the crest. Overall, the approach from the Dughoba alpine base to the start of the route takes 5–6 hours. V. Kislyakov, L. Stolyarenko, P. Dedorov, V. Shadrin. May 10, 1987 (Dugobich). 450 m, 150°, 32 pitches, 18 hours.

Scheme of the climbing area

Route diagram on Peak Khurdzhum Gl. in UIAA symbols WESTERN RIDGE R10: 40 m, 40°, 2, difficulty category 2

Description of the ascent route to the summit Ulitor 4680 m via North spur of West ridge, category 3B difficulty (orientation)

The summit Ulitor 4680 m is located in the spurs of the Alay ridge in the Kollektorskiy range between the summits Fergana and Zachetnaya. To the east of Ulitor lies the pass Fergana, category 1B difficulty, and to the west - the pass Ulitor, category 2B difficulty. To approach the start of the route from the alplager "Dugoba", it is necessary to:

• ascend along the Dugoba gorge (via a trail) to the confluence with the Ulitor river,
• then along the Ulitor river gorge (via a trail) to the 3600 m campsite. From there, continue up the gorge (keeping to the right-hand side):
• initially via a trail,
• then across moraines,
• emerging onto the Ulitor glacier and traversing its center towards the summit Ulitor.

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Alai Range
3. Peak: Pik Synovey, height about 5100 m, ascent route - via the North face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — about 1100 m, average steepness: 55°, length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 160 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 190 m, 4th cat. diff. — 300 m, 5th cat. diff. — 590 m, 6th cat. diff. — 40 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 49