Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: technical (combined)
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Kollektor Range, DUGOBA-SHIGOU river valley.
3. Peak: DUGOBA-SHIGOU (4800 m), via the ice slab on the Western ridge, combined route.
4. Category 4A difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 650 m, length of Category IV sections 250 m, average steepness of the snow-ice part 45°.
6. Pitons used on the route: rock 8 ice 23 chocks 5

Climbing Report on v. Dvuzubka (4430 m)

via the "Pillar" and the western wall Team:

• Yu. A. Logachev CMS
• O. I. Shumilov CMS
• V. N. Bocharov MS
• A. A. Potekhin CMS
• G. G. Andreev CMS
• Yu. S. Emelyanenko CMS

22 24 ASCENT REPORT

I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: AUSB "Dugoba", Alai Range 3. Peak, its height, route taken: p. Dvuzubka, 4430 m, Western ridge of the Northern crest 4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B 5. Route characteristics: rock climbing 6. Height difference: 800 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 260 m Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty: 25 m Average steepness: Western ridge — 65°, Northern crest — 15°

Climbing type — rock Climbing area — Alai ridge, Dugoба resort area Peak, its height — Gandakush 3850 m Ascent route — NW edge Proposed category of difficulty — 3B Route characteristics — rock Height difference — 3100–3850 m = 750 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — none Steepness — 40–44° Number of driven hooks for belay:

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Pamir-Alay, mountain range.
3. Gandakush peak, 4300 m, via the eastern spur.
4. Complexity category 3B–4A.
5. Height difference 8500 m, average steepness 45°–49°.
6. 8 rock pitons hammered in for belaying.
7. Total climbing time — 8 hours.
8. Overnight stay (earthen platform) under the route in the Ular-Sai gorge, on the bank of the Ular-Sai river.
9. Team leader — Osminin Vladimir Alekseevich — 1st sports category. Team members: Andrienko Valery Pavlovich — 1st sports category, Moiseev Yuri Mikhailovich — 1st sports category, Sokolovsky Evgeny Alekseevich — 1st sports category, Fedotov Viktor Aleksandrovich — 1st sports category.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area, ridge: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: Belaya Shapka, 4666 m, via north-eastern spur of south-eastern ridge, combined
4. Proposed category: 1B
5. Route characteristics: — height difference 600 m; — length of sections with 5th-6th category difficulty: none; — average slope 40°

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent area; ridge: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: Belaya Shapka, 4666 m, via north-eastern ridge, combined
4. Proposed category: 2A
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference 600 m;
• length of sections with category 5–6 complexity — none;
• average steepness 40°

6. Pitons used: none (rock outcrops were used)

1. Class — technical.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge.
3. Peak — Belaya via the North ridge, height 4760 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 575 m, length of sections by category: II — 620 m, III — 360 m, IV — 170 m, average steepness — 29°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 18, ice — ?; for anchors and organization: rock — ?, ice — ?.
7. Total climbing hours — 9.5 hours.

Central Council of the Zenit Sports Society Protocol No. 396 dated April 15, 1975 5A first ascent (daib) AKTASH — 4937 m VIA THE WESTERN EDGE (first ascent) Naumov A.F. Master of Sports

Ascent via the North Ridge

The summit of Ak-tash is located in the northwestern spurs of the Alay Range, in the upper reaches of the following glaciers:

• to the southwest — Dugoba,
• to the northeast — Ak-Tash,
• to the northwest — Dugoba-Shigou. The Ak-tash summit massif consists of heavily fragmented granite and limestone rocks.

Day One

From the "Dugoba" alpine camp, we proceed along the Dugoba River valley to the confluence of the Ak-Tash and Ulitor rivers (2 hours). At the confluence, the trail forks; the further path lies along the left orographic bank of the Ak-Tash River, bypassing a pronounced rocky massif on the right. The trail leads to a green meadow; after crossing it, we descend to the Surmetash River, and then, traversing the talus and grassy slopes above the left bank of the Ak-Tash River, we reach a canyon-like steep descent to the river (3–3.5 hours from the confluence).