First ascent to the summit "Novichok" via the South-East edge (Photo № 1 and Photo № 2).

The "Novichok" summit is located in the North-Western spurs of the Alai ridge, in the lower reaches of the "Kalkush" glacier.

The approach to the "Novichok" summit can be made:

• from the "Kalkush" gorge along the river of the same name to the "Kalkush" pass, with an ascent to it in 6 hours;
• along the "Dugoba" gorge to the confluence of the Uliter and Ak-Tash rivers and further along the Surmetash river with an ascent to the Kalkush pass from the North-East, 6 hours.

The ascent to the "Kalkush" pass is category 1B. In the lower part, there are screes and further on snow, it takes 2-3 hours.

The ascent to the "Novichok" summit along the South-East edge is carried out from the pass along the 200 m scree, then a rocky ascent along rocks of medium and easy difficulty - 450-500 m, which leads to a rocky ledge.

Bypassing the "gendarme" on the left - 25 m (ropes are necessary).

The second "gendarme" is passed head-on along a rocky chimney (stretching ropes), 15 m.

Further ascent along rocks of medium difficulty - 3 ropes and the summit.

The summit has a height of 3940 m, a wide area where up to 50 people can be accommodated.

The group believes that the summit has category 1B and can be used for training purposes in the preparation of beginners and badge holders.

We ask to name the summit "Novichok".

HEAD OF TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF "DUGOBA" ALP. CAMP (ZHUKOV V.)

www.alpfederation.ru↗

LIST

of participants who made the first ascent to the "Novichok" summit 3940 m, via the South-East edge.

Necessary mountaineering equipment for the group, detachments.

1. ZHUKOV V.M. CMS, senior instructor - leader
2. BABININ A.V. 1st sports category, junior instructor - participant
3. FINK V.N. 2nd sports category, trainee - participant
4. HARECHKO N. 2nd sports category, trainee - participant
5. Main ropes
6. Rock pitons
7. Rappel ropes
8. Belts

SCHEME

OF THE "DUGOBA" ALP. CAMP AREA Pamir-Alai