Description of the First Ascent to the Festivalnaya Peak via the North Face

The Festivlnaya peak is located in the upper reaches of the Mama River, in the southern spur of the Hissar Range - south of the Proni Siam and South Siam peaks. This spur stretches from north to south and sharply turns east near the Festivlnaya peak. There are two Festivlnaya peaks:

• Eastern
• Western (main, height 4350 m), which are elevations on a massive ridge stretching in a latitudinal direction. A route along the ridge from east to west was previously traversed and is rated as a 4A category route. The northern slopes of the peak are steep, with snow-covered rocks and steep snow and ice couloirs in many places. A significant snow and ice couloir descends from the saddle between the Eastern and Western peaks. The rocks on the left (in the direction of travel) bank of the couloir are heavily destroyed, and stones are constantly falling from there. To the right of the couloir, there are two counterforts separated by a snowy slope, and ascent routes to the peak are possible via both.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Ascent area — Igizak area, Gissar ridge.
3. Khamsoya Central peak (3640 m) via the western edge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, length of sections with 3–4 difficulty category — 160 m, average steepness — 65°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 4

38. Hamsøya Central summit, from Bezymyannyi pass, category III, fig. 17

From the "Green Glade" bivouac, follow the stream flowing from the ice amphitheater towards Bezymyannyi pass. The ascent to the pass is over snow and talus. Hamsøya is a ridge with three summits oriented in a meridional direction. From the pass, head south towards the North summit. The first sentinels are bypassed on the left. The rocks are crumbling. A ridge approaches the North summit from the left. Before reaching the ridge, ascend slightly to the right. Reach the summit without ascending onto the main ridge. The descent from the North summit is over easy rocks along a narrow ridge towards the col between the North and Central summits. Then descend down to the right from the ridge and follow a series of ledges to reach the col. The ascent to the Central summit from the col is up a smooth 10 m wall via a crack. Protection is piton. Then reach large smooth slabs. They are traversed via a crack. Moving left along large boulders, reach the Central summit. Between the Central and South summits lies a deep gap. The descent from the summit is over smooth, stepped rocks. Bypass the sentinel on the right via a wide ledge and descend into the col below the South summit via a couloir, which drops off with a negative smooth slab. From the col, descend down to the right along a steep couloir, then follow the valley to the bivouac. The ascent takes 7 hours. Fig. 17.

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Khamsoya South (Hissar Range) approximately 4A category of difficulty, accomplished on August 24, 1979. 200 m, V–6, 190 m, 65°, 48/5 rock pitons, 7/2 chocks, 17 hours. Leader: V. M. Goncharenko. Participants:

• V. Yan
• T. V. Kubonina
• S. S. Sobolev
• V. I. Klestov

2. Climbing area — Igyzakh area, Hissar Range.
3. Peak Khamsoya Yuzhnaya (3715 m) via the western wall spur.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty grade — 190 m, average steepness — 65°
6. Pitons driven: for belay for creating s.p. rock — 48, ice — 5

bolts

Climbing Passport

Climb category: Rock (combined) Climbing area: Iguizaki area (5.2) Peak, its height, and ascent route: Khamsöya traverse of 3 peaks (C–S) Proposed difficulty category: 4A (3A) Route characteristics:

• Elevation gain: 300 m
• Average slope: 30°
• Section lengths: R1–300; R2–500; R3–200; R4–200;
• Pitons driven:

Ascent Description

To the peak Khar'kov (category III) The group should depart from the bivouac at 6:00. You need to ascend to the glacier of peak Khar'kov via the terminal moraine and move along its slopes towards the Pяти pass, from which the ascent to the summit begins. The ascent to the pass goes through steep snow (40-45° steepness) with a bergschrund at the base, which is usually closed at the beginning of summer and opens in August-September. The length of the ascent from the bergschrund to the pass ridge is approximately 60 m. Upon reaching the pass:

• The first 10-15 m the path goes through the snowfield to the right of the rocks.
• The first "Jendarme" on the way is bypassed on the left via easy rocks.
• Then follows an exit to the ridge and movement along it on the right side.
• On the left side of the ridge, there is a good platform for organizing an overnight stay.
• Along the ridge, the path goes to the second jendarme.

Description

of the 3B category difficulty route to the summit "KHARKOV" via the NW edge. From the bivouac organized on the moraine of the western slopes of the summit "PESHIN", the group heads to the cairn of the "SNEZHNY" pass (the transition takes 30–40 minutes), from where the route to the summit "KHARKOV" via the NW edge is clearly visible. The route begins from the "SNEZHNY" pass, going vertically up the snow with initially gentle slopes, and then the steepness reaches 50–55°. Bypassing the lower rock outcrop:

• Bypassed on the left. Characteristics of the snow route:

23. Khodzha Laizi from the south, route category III, fig. 10 (Mukhamedova E., with a group – 1953)

The route starts from the Khodzha-Obi-Garm resort along a grassy slope to the southern ridge of the summit. Climb along the ridge to a rocky gendarme, which does not present particular difficulties. Pass the next gendarme on the right through a couloir with black stones. The couloir leads to a grassy slope, at the top of which a large rocky spire is visible. KHODJA LAISI CORNISES (IN SPRING)! 23 RESORT Fig. 10. The grassy ridge narrows and leads to rocks. Reach the sub-summit along the ridge. Traverse complex sections on the left of the ridge along scree. Before the summit, the ridge has a steep step down, 5–7 m high, where it is necessary to set up a rope descent. Steep, smooth rocks lead to the summit ridge. Reach the summit along easy rocks. The ascent takes 6 hours. Descend from the summit to the left along scree into the cirque beneath Ular peak. In winter, descend via the ascent route. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.

1. Khodzha Lokan (Mechta) via the west ridge, 4A cat. diff. route, fig. 2.

From the base camp, cross to the Kadam-Tash stream via Cheryotyrekh Pass. Then ascend the scree to the glacier located beneath the eastern wall of the summit. Cross the glacier plateau to Mechta Pass, where there are overnight stay areas. Descend from the pass down the glacier for 15–20 minutes. Before reaching the glacier's bend, ascend in the direction of:

• the bergschrund;
• two rock "islands";
• the ridge leading to the snowy saddle on the summit's west ridge. The ascent up the ice slope is done with alternating belays via ice screws. Higher up, belays are set using rock pitons hammered into the rocks of the "islands" and the ridge leading to the saddle. The ascent from the glacier to the saddle is 400 m. Above the saddle, the gendarme's wall is crowned with three peaks, between which two chimneys descend down the entire wall. Pass under the wall on the right via wide horizontal ledges and reach a couloir. Cross the couloir and ascend to the summit ridge via its right side. Follow the ridge (over rocks and snow) to the summit. The ascent from Mechta Pass to the summit takes 8–10 hours. The descent is from the summit via the ascent route. From the saddle, the descent is organized with rope retrieval down to the glacier. Then follow the glacier through the passes: