Ascent Passport
- Climbing category — rock.
- Ascent area — Igizak area, Gissar ridge.
- Khamsoya Central peak (3640 m) via the western edge.
- Estimated difficulty category — 3A.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, length of sections with 3–4 difficulty category — 160 m, average steepness — 65°
- Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 4 ice — – bolt — – for creating belay anchors: – Number of "cams" used: for belaying — 6 for creating belay anchors: –
- Total climbing hours — 8 hours,
including:
- approach from "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac — 2 hours;
- ascent to the summit — 4 hours 30 minutes;
- descent from the summit to "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac — 1 hour 30 minutes.
- The ascent was made by the "Varzob" group consisting of: Khurkin V. M., Mironova L. E.
- Departure to the route from "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac on August 3, 1981. Return to the bivouac on the same day.
Khamsoya Central peak (3640 m) is located in the southern spur of the Gissar ridge, which branches off in a southerly direction, dividing the upper reaches of the Kadam-Tash and Siamy rivers, and then sharply turns east. The eastern end of this ridge drops off into the Varzob gorge. In its eastern part is the Igizak area with the eponymous gorge. The Khamsoya peak is located in a cirque formed, in addition to it, by the peaks Ular, Khyr's, Kulay Dzhavonon, and Bivachnaya. There is a convenient approach to the Khamsoya peak from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac (1 hour).
There are currently three classified routes to the three Khamsoya peaks (North, Central, and South). These are category 2B difficulty on Khamsoya Central peak (actually a traverse of Khamsoya S. and Khamsoya C. peaks). The traverse of all Khamsoya peaks is category 3A difficulty. Both routes start from the Bezымянный pass. The route to Khamsoya South peak via the counterfort of the western wall is category 4A difficulty.
Meanwhile, it seems logical to ascend Khamsoya Central peak via the western edge. The existence of such a route would naturally complement the existing routes. The route chosen by the group for the first ascent is logical in that:
- it does not have easier bypasses;
- it leads directly to the summit;
- it is sufficiently long.
The route appears typical for the area. It is rocky. There are sections of medium-complexity climbing.
The report on the first ascent is compiled in accordance with the regulations on route classification. It contains the following items:
Igizak area diagram
Route Description
to Khamsoya (Central) via the Western Edge.
Explanation for the table:
- From "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, go along the stream flowing from the cirque of Kulay-Dzhavonon peak.
- Cross the stream and exit under the slopes of Khamsoya (Central) peak.
The beginning of the route is opposite a large gray boulder lying in the middle of the couloir, to the right of the base of the Western Edge. Through a cleft (40 m) exit under the wall with smoothed holds. From the smooth wall, traverse left along the gray wall with good holds. Then go up to an inclined shelf to a signal cairn. Climbing is of medium complexity, belaying via pitons; at the cairn, belaying is possible through ledges. Further, via a series of shelves to a juniper tree located on a wall with a steepness of 70°, climbing is easy. Belaying is via pitons or through ledges (30 m). The wall is climbed directly (20 m), climbing is of medium difficulty. In the upper part of the wall, along the shallowing, traverse right into a couloir with a steepness of 30° (15 m) — movement is simultaneous. Exit onto a shelf to a control cairn, which is located to the right of the ridge under the wall on the lower shelf.
From the control cairn, go right along inclined shelves to bypass the wall, crossing a vertical internal corner. Exit onto a large shelf with large rocks, climbing is complex, belaying is via pitons. Further up, via a cleft turning into an internal corner (20 m, 40°). Climbing is of medium complexity, belaying through ledges. Along the internal corner (20 m, 70°) under an overhanging wall, which is bypassed on the left along the wall via a traverse (20 m, 70°). On the left part of the wall, there is a horizontal shelf 0.5 m wide, leading to the ridge. To the left of the ridge, along a horizontal shelf 1 m wide, pass under the internal corner (20 m). Further along the internal corner (20 m, 70°), climbing is complex, belaying is via pitons, exit onto the ridge onto a wide shelf under the wall. The wall is climbed on the right part (20 m, 70°), climbing is complex, belaying is via pitons. Further along easy rocks to the summit — 50 m.
Descent onto the saddle between Central and South Khamsoya peaks. Further down the couloir to the start of the route.
The ascent takes 8 hours.
Traverse of three Khamsoya peaks
from Bezымянный pass — 3A category.
The ascent to the peak is made from "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac located under Bivachnaya peak. From the camp, follow the stream flowing from the Khamsoya cirque: Ular, Khyr's, Kulay Dzhavonon, to a snowfield leading to Bezымянный pass.
Climb to the pass first via the snowfield, then via scree. From the pass, move in a southerly direction along the Khamsoya ridge. The first three gendarmes are bypassed on the left. Rocks are crumbling, move with belaying. To the fourth gendarme, climb via rocks of medium difficulty. Control cairn. To the next (fifth) gendarme, bypass on the left via small shelves into the depression between the fifth and sixth gendarmes. The sixth gendarme is taken head-on (no bypasses) via a 35 m high wall with good shelves and holds. Belaying is via pitons.
Descend from the gendarme via easy rocks to the pre-summit gendarme of the North peak, which is taken head-on (no bypasses). The ascent to the gendarme goes via a smooth 10 m high wall along a cleft. Belaying is via pitons. Then exit onto large smooth slabs. They are overcome via a cleft and, moving left, approach a wide couloir leading to the summit. Belaying is alternating through ledges. Climb via the couloir to the North Khamsoya peak.
Between the North peak and the tower of the Central peak, there is a depression about 100 m deep. Descent from the North peak goes via smoothed rocks with belaying. Bypass the gendarme on the right via wide shelves and approach the tower, which drops off with a negative smooth slab. Bypass the wall on the left via a shelf to a wide couloir leading to the ridge. The couloir is scree-covered, rocks are crumbling. Climbing via the couloir for about 25 m and moving left via a shelf, exit to two narrow chimneys leading to the ridge. The ascent is via the right chimney with belaying through ledges. Exit onto the ridge via the chimney. Descent goes via slabs with belaying. Further along the ridge, approach a gendarme, which is initially bypassed:
- via an inclined 5 m long shelf;
- then via a 7 m crack, climb to the ridge leading to the Central peak.
The ridge is sharp, rocks are crumbling.
Descend from the Central peak along the ridge via rocks of medium difficulty. The encountered gendarme is taken head-on (rocks are easy). The next gendarme is bypassed on the left. Further movement goes via a very steep 10 m long scree couloir. The next 2 gendarmes are bypassed on the left, and along the ridge, climb to the South peak. Further movement goes along the ridge down via rocks of medium difficulty. Gendarmes are bypassed on the right. Descend from the ridge to the right via a couloir onto a snowfield. Further along the right-bank moraine, exit onto a trail and via the valley to "Zelyonaya Polyana".
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants — 6 people
- Initial bivouac — "Zelyonaya Polyana"
- Departure time — not later than 5:00
- Equipment for a group of 6 people: rock pitons — 8 pcs, hammers — 2 pcs, carabiners — 6 pcs, main ropes 3 × 40 m.
Time Calculation
- "Zelyonaya Polyana" — Bezымянный pass — 2 hours
- Bezымянный pass — North peak — 2.5 hours
- North peak — Central peak — 3.5 hours
- Central peak — South peak — 3 hours
- Descent from the peak to "Zelyonaya Polyana" — 1 hour
Total 12 hours
Khamsoya from "Zelyonaya Polyana"