Ascent Description
To the peak Khar'kov (category III)
The group should depart from the bivouac at 6:00. You need to ascend to the glacier of peak Khar'kov via the terminal moraine and move along its slopes towards the Pяти pass, from which the ascent to the summit begins. The ascent to the pass goes through steep snow (40-45° steepness) with a bergschrund at the base, which is usually closed at the beginning of summer and opens in August-September. The length of the ascent from the bergschrund to the pass ridge is approximately 60 m.
Upon reaching the pass:
- The first 10-15 m the path goes through the snowfield to the right of the rocks.
- The first "Jendarme" on the way is bypassed on the left via easy rocks.
- Then follows an exit to the ridge and movement along it on the right side.
- On the left side of the ridge, there is a good platform for organizing an overnight stay.
- Along the ridge, the path goes to the second jendarme.
- Having ascended a 5 m wall, the second jendarme is bypassed via a 10 m wide snowfield, and then via rocks.
Further, the path exits to a snowfield to the left of the ridge with a series of small jendarmes, which are bypassed via the snowfield.
The path leads to a 60-meter wall with smoothed выступы. You need to traverse to the left on one rope. The wall has no cracks, which complicates belay organization. The ascent goes via ledges to the left towards a pronounced ledge located at a height of 30 m from the base of the wall. On the ledge, you can organize a belay.
From the ledge, the ascent via ledges goes upwards with a slope to the right. Having reached a counterfort above the wall, we move along the ledges to a 10 m gap.
In the middle of the ledge, you need to descend down by 1.5-2 m to another ledge and exit to the gap via it. When moving along the ledges, you should organize piton belays.
From the gap, there are two possible paths further. The first, more difficult but shorter, is along the ridge; the second is less difficult, traversing the wall to the right via an inclined plate and ledges - to a 3 m high wall. Further, the path leads to the pre-summit jendarme, which is bypassed on the right via the snowfield. Then, via a 10 m long crevice, there is an ascent to the summit obelisk. From the crevice, the movement to the summit goes along an inclined edge.
Time calculation
- Overnight stay - Pяти pass - 1-1.5 hours.
- Pяти pass - summit - 3-4 hours.
- Descent - to overnight stay - 2-3 hours. Total 7-9 hours.
Required equipment
- Rock pitons - 6 pieces
- Rock hammers - 2 pieces
- Repschnur consumable - 8 m
Compiled by: S.A. Tipikin
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