1. Climbing area — Igyzakh area, Hissar Range.
  2. Peak Khamsoya Yuzhnaya (3715 m) via the western wall spur.
  3. Estimated difficulty category — 4B.
  4. Route characteristics:

height difference — 800 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty grade — 190 m, average steepness — 65°

  1. Pitons driven: for belay for creating s.p.

rock — 48, ice — 5

bolts

"Zakladki" used:

  • for belay
  • for creating s.p. — 7
  1. Total travel time — 17 hours.

including:

  • approach from "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac — 1 hour
  • ascent to the summit — 14 hours 30 minutes.
  • descent from the summit to "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac — 1 hour 30 minutes.
  1. Possible overnight locations:

1st — on the spur shoulder near the control cairn, 2nd — on a ledge before the "lopata" sentry rock, 3rd — on the ridge. All overnight stays are lying down, with comfortable areas.

  1. The ascent was made by instructors from the "Varzob" alpine camp:

Goncharenko V.M. (1st category) — leader, Kubonina T.V. (CMS), Sobolev S.S. (CMS), Klestov V.I. (1st category).

Team coach — Master of Sports of the USSR E.G. Sogrina.

Departure for the route from "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac on August 24, 1979. Return to the bivouac on the same day.

Attached files

Sources

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