Passport

First ascent to the summit peak 4804 (peak LTI) via the North-Eastern ridge, category 3B (tentative)

1. Class — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay
3. Summit, height, ascent route — peak 4804 via NE ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 260 m, average slope — 33°
6. Pitons driven: for belay — 17 Rock — 17 Ice —

Passport

First ascent to peak 4804 via the northwest ridge, category 3B difficulty (approximate)

1. Class — technical
2. Area of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Surmitash valley, area of "Dugoba" alpine camp
3. Peak, height, ascent route — peak 4804 m via NW ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: length of sections by difficulty — category 4 — 80 m, category 3 — 320 m; average steepness — 50°
6. Pitons hammered for belay:

Ascent Passport

I. Class: rock 2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge 3. Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South wall 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1020 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty cat.: 890 m average steepness: 70°

ASCENT PASS

1. Class: rock
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge
3. Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South face
4. Difficulty category: 5B (2nd)
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 1020 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 910 m
   • average steepness: 65°
6. Pitons used:

Report

on the ascent to Mashalyan peak via the South wall, category 5B (third ascent)

SKA UralVO Team:

1. Mikhailov A.N. — team leader and coach, Master of Sports
2. Evsyukov G.K. — deputy leader, Master of Sports
3. Povolotsky V.Yu. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
4. Kharitonov A.P. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports

Table

of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Mashalyan peak via the South wall

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — first ascent within the framework of the Asia Championship. 2. Ascent area — Pamiro-Alai ridge, Alai range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mashalyan 4240 m via the right part of the South Face. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B. 5. Route characteristics: total height difference 1340 m, wall section height difference 920 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 965 m, average steepness 67°. 6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock 83, ice —, bolt —, protection elements 58; for creating intermediate belay points: rock 38, ice —, bolt —, protection elements 71, "skyhooks" 14, "friends" 16, crooked-leg ladders, crooked legs 9. 7. Total climbing hours 35 hours. 8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — four: first — comfortable, lying down; second — uncomfortable, sitting in a tent; third — semi-reclined, somewhat uncomfortable; fourth — after the summit on descent, comfortable, lying down.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region — Pamir-Alai.
3. Peak — MOSKVICH 4600 m via the north-northeast ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category — third. 3B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1000 m. average steepness — 45°.
6. Pitons driven for protection: rock — 7. ice — 9.
7. Number of travel hours — 10.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamir-Alai, spurs of the Kollektor Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. "Novichok" 4000 m, NE ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A category
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories, average steepness
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying — 8 rock pitons
7. Number of walking hours — 7 hours
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics —
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification

First ascent to the summit "Novichok" via the South-East edge (Photo № 1 and Photo № 2). The "Novichok" summit is located in the North-Western spurs of the Alai ridge, in the lower reaches of the "Kalkush" glacier. The approach to the "Novichok" summit can be made:

• from the "Kalkush" gorge along the river of the same name to the "Kalkush" pass, with an ascent to it in 6 hours;
• along the "Dugoba" gorge to the confluence of the Uliter and Ak-Tash rivers and further along the Surmetash river with an ascent to the Kalkush pass from the North-East, 6 hours. The ascent to the "Kalkush" pass is category 1B. In the lower part, there are screes and further on snow, it takes 2-3 hours. The ascent to the "Novichok" summit along the South-East edge is carried out from the pass along the 200 m scree, then a rocky ascent along rocks of medium and easy difficulty - 450-500 m, which leads to a rocky ledge. Bypassing the "gendarme" on the left - 25 m (ropes are necessary). The second "gendarme" is passed head-on along a rocky chimney (stretching ropes), 15 m. Further ascent along rocks of medium difficulty - 3 ropes and the summit.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical Class. 2. Pamir-Alai, horseshoe of Cosmonauts 3. Nikolaeva Peak, height 4900, ascent along the Eastern ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m length of the section: 5 cat. diff. — 8 m 4 cat. diff. — 50 m