Ascent Passport

I. Technical. 2. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge. 3. Peak Nikolaeva (4900 m) via the central bastion of the NE wall. 4. Category 5A difficulty. 5. Height difference 540 m, average steepness — about 70°. 6. 96 pitons driven. Rock — 85 Ice — 11 Bolts — 0

72

Peak V. Orlova via the E buttress and E ridge, Pamiro-Alai 5.1.1.

Passport

1. Category
2. Pamiro-Alai, Alai Ridge, Archakanysh gorge.
3. Peak V. Orlova, via the E buttress and SE ridge.
4. Proposed — cat. 3A difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 430 m, wall section — 170 m.
6. Route length: 760 m. Average slope 45°

Passport

I. Class of ascent — technical. 2. Area of ascent, ridge — Sauk-Jailyau gorge, Alai ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 4870 (proposed name — p. Pamyati 4-kh) — from the southeast. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 870 m. Length of sections R5–R6 cat. diff. — 650 m. Average slope 45°. 6. Pitons driven — for belay, for creating, etc.

At the 1977 Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship in the category of technically complex ascents

Peak Popovich (approximately 4800 m)

Alaisky ridge, Pamir-Alai, Cosmonauts' Horseshoe. (first ascent) Combined team of Dnipropetrovsk regional council of the Spartak Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports Petrychenko N.N. Participants:

• Candidate Master of Sports Protsenko L.V.
• Zurabishvili Z.D.
• Rybalka K.P. Dnipropetrovsk — 1977

Ascent Passport

I. Category of technically complex ascents. 2. Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge. Kosmonavtov Horseshoe. 3. Peak Popovich (approximately 4800 m) via the North Face. 4. 5th category of difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 420 m. b) length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 405 m. c) average steepness — 80–85°. 6. Number of pitons driven for belaying and creating R.A.P. (Rope Anchorage Points): a) rock pitons — 89. b) ice screws — 7. c) bolt pitons — 3. 7. Number of climbing hours — 26.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge.
3. Peak — Popovich Peak, height 4800 m, via the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 800 m;
   • length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 310 m;
   • average steepness — 55°.
5. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
6. Pitons driven:

I. Climbing classification 2. Climbing area 3. Peak, its height, route taken 4. Estimated category of difficulty 5. Route characteristics 6. Elevation gain 7. Length of sections Total route length 8. Average slope 9. Pitons hammered in:

Brief description of the route approach

From Dugoba a/l, follow the trail to the confluence of the Ak-tash and Ulitor rivers, then continue along the Ulitor river trail to the moraine campsite. Then, follow the trail through two moraine ascents to the campsite under the high rocky ridge. From the campsite, ascend the scree gully to the destroyed black rocks and then rightwards along the scree to the rocky slabs. This is the starting point of the route.

MAIN ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS TABLE

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent region: Pamir-Alay, Alayskiy ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. SAIV, 4650 m, via the eastern ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m average steepness — 50°, length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 500 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 360 m, 4th cat. diff. — 120 m 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating RPS (Rappel and Intermediate Protection Points): rock — 38, ice — hammer-screw 7. Number of walking hours: 9 hours

2

Teams

SACS “BAKA–Dugoba 2012” on the ascent route to Mt. SAGU via the icy slope of the northern wall of the northwestern ridge "3B", (K)

Leader

Temerev I.M.

Participants

Timofeev D.I., Matveev S.V., Voronezhceva O.A., Alabugin I.V., Tyshkylova N.P., Selezneva S.V., Mukhametzhanov B.M.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, region 5.1.1. Gadjir, Mashalyan, Dugoba, Koyсу, Archakanysh rivers basin (north of the Alay range).
2. Mt. SAGU, icy slope of the Northern wall of the northwestern ridge.