- Jashtyk Uzlovaya via North-Eastern Ridge
The route is combined, category III (fig. 5, 6, 40–42).
Length — 400 m, ascent — 300 m, grade IV section - 20 m, time — 5–6 hours.
The path from "Kyrgyzata" alpine camp (2 to 8 people in a group) to the initial bivouac by the lake below the North-West wall of Jyrty peak — see in route 23. From the initial bivouac, move up along the moraines to the right, into the gorge, and onto the East Kyrgyzata glacier. Follow the left side of the glacier (closed crevasses) to below the northern snow-ice slope descending from the eastern shoulder from below the summit tower of the North-Eastern ridge of Jashtyk-Uzlовая peak. About 1 hour from the initial bivouac.
Here, turn left and, overcoming the bergschrund (pitons), ascend 300 m up the steep (40°) moderately difficult snow-ice slope (pitons), to the right of a long rocky outcrop, onto a snowy saddle (cornice), to the right of the Bashnya pinnacle.
On the saddle, turn right and ascend 40 m up rocks of moderate and above moderate difficulty on the wall (pitons) of the North-Eastern ridge. Then move 50–60 m along 45° moderately difficult smooth slabs (belay). Further, ascend 60–80 m up the moderately difficult wall with short sections of above moderate difficulty, alternating with narrow inclined ledges (“live” rocks, pitons) and along 20–30-meter inclined block slabs of moderate difficulty (“live” rocks, belay) on the North-Eastern ridge to reach the summit of Jashtyk Uzlovaya. 6–8 hours from the initial bivouac.
img-0.jpeg