- Zhashtyk Uzlovaya via the Southwest Ridge
The route is combined, category 2B (fig. 5, 6, 40–42).
Length — 600 m, elevation gain — 300 m, time — 5–6 hours.
The path from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac by the lake below the Northwest wall of Jyrty peak — see route 23. From the initial bivouac, traverse the moraines right-up the gorge to reach the East Kyrgyz-Ata glacier and follow its left side (closed crevasses) to approach the left side of the Zhashtyk pass, to the left of its three gendarmes. Time from the initial bivouac is 1–1.5 hours. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund (protection), and ascend 250–300 m up the steep snow-ice slope, to the right of a lone rocky outcrop, to the left side of the Zhashtyk pass col. On the col, turn left and follow the broad, gentle, scree-covered, snow-covered 120–150-meter Southwest ridge, passing two straightforward 10–20-meter rock steps, to approach the rock step of the summit. Initially, traverse the step with an 80–100-meter traverse with a slight ascent along simple rocks on the right side of the Southwest ridge (protection). Then ascend 100–120 m up a narrowing couloir (falling rocks, loose rocks, piton protection) to reach the summit Southwest ridge. Here, turn right and follow simple, steep, broken rocks (protection) of the 20–30-meter Southwest ridge to reach the summit of Zhashtyk Uzlovaya. Time from the start of the ascent to the Zhashtyk pass is 5–6 hours.
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