- Karagoy via the South Ridge
The route is rocky, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 61, 62, 73). Length — 700 m, elevation gain — 300 m, time — 3.5–4 hours. The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac in the Djeljilga gorge, at the entrance to the lateral Ruchyeva cirque — see route 14.
From the initial bivouac:
- Turn right and ascend via the right-bank moraine into the Ruchyeva cirque.
- Continue ascending via the right-bank moraine and, after passing the slopes of the LVO peak, approach the saddle of the Karagoy Pass.
- From the cirque — 250–300 m ascent to the right of the Eastern counterfort of the Northern ridge of the Big Ruchyeva peak with a triangular base, along a 30–35° slope composed of small and medium talus, transitioning into multiple couloirs in the central and upper parts.
- Ascend via the middle couloir to the Karagoy Pass.
From the initial bivouac — 2–2.5 hours.
The approach to the Karagoy Pass from the Suichikty gorge:
- From the alpine camp, ascend via the left-bank road of the Suichikty river to the kurgan, then to the ruined stone house of geologists.
- Continue via the pack trail on the left, then right bank of the Suichikty river.
- After passing the large terminal moraine of the left lateral West-Karagoy cirque and the base of the Northwest ridge of Karagoy peak, turn left and cross the Suichikty river.
- Ascent — 1800–2000 m.
- Initially, ascend via a grass-covered talus slope to the Karagoy Pass.
From the alpine camp — 5–6 hours.
At the pass, when ascending from the Suichikty gorge:
- Turn left and ascend via easy and simple broken rocks with low gendarmes and walls (protection) — 300–350 m ascent to the South shoulder.
- From the shoulder, follow the long 400–500 m easy, gentle, and occasionally narrow (protection) South ridge to the summit of Karagoy.
From the pass — 2 hours 30 minutes – 3 hours 30 minutes.
